Georgian c1820 French Bourbon 18ct Gold Harlequin Multi Gemstone Cannetille Pendant Necklace Antique Foiled Amethyst Chrysoprase Turquoise

DIMENSIONS: Necklace Length: 46cm Pendant Drop: 55mm Pendant Width: 40mm WEIGHT: 8.5g approx HALLMARKS: small French fineness stamps. 18ct Gold minimum WILL BE SENT IN HARD BOX PICTURED. DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY This is an exceptionally fine, superb quality c1820 Georgian Bourbon period French cannetille harlequin multi gemstone drop pendant necklace. The cannetille style is thought to have been inspired by the embroidered costumes of European peasants. It differs from filigree in its 3 dimensional nature, and comprises fine wirework and thinly stamped metals, and in its finest form is embellished -as here- with granulation: tiny, individually applied gold spheres set in rows. In the early days of cannetille, stamped metals were typically disk-shaped; with tendrils, scrolls, raised rosettes and 'beehives' used, all motifs apparent in this example. Floral and shell motifs became popular later, in the 1830s. Cannetille jewellery was created without solder and was extremely labour intensive. Colorful gemstones were typical, such as aquamarine, pink topaz, amethyst, or chrysoberyl, with turquoise and sometimes garnet characteristic of France and central Europe. Usually, as in this example, the stones were set in closed backs and foiled to create a more uniform colour and enhance sparkle; also here, typical of Georgian gemstone mounting, the green chrysoberyl /chrysoprase and amethyst are set in pinched, rub over Collet or 'piecrust' mounts. The economic impact of the Napoleonic Wars was felt by even the wealthiest classes and affected the flow and quantity of gold into Europe. This paucity of precious metals was one inspiration for the development of cannetille, but a renewed traditionalism was also a factor, with the influence of antique embroidery practices. However, the delicate nature of cannetille construction allowed for the creation of elaborate jewels, and even the manufacture of sizable pieces such as this beautiful pendant, that were still comparatively light. The term 'Harlequin' refers to jewellery containing multiple contrasting mixed gemstones, popular in the Georgian period. It is an umbrella term, named for the colourful court jester costumes of the medieval period, and incorporates acrostic and planetary jewellery, jewellery set with multiple, meaningful gemstones, and pieces simply created for the appeal of colour. Harlequin jewellery originated in France, and was supposed to have been a favourite of Marie Antoinette and Napoleon. From the early 19th century, and the reign of the Bourbons, interest in the jewellery fashions beloved of Marie Antoinette resurged-spreading also to England- and that influence can be seen here in this stunning mixture of the colourful Harlequin, and cannetille styles. This French harlequin piece contains foiled amethyst and Chrysoberyl/chrysoprase, with cabochon turquoise and seed pearls. CONDITION REPORT: Commensurate with age and delicacy, there are a few tiny granules lost, but these are not obvious except under close examination, and none of the other, more significant applied embellishments are missing. At 200 years of age the overall condition of this cannetille jewel is comparatively excellent: the particularly fine and delicate formation of each element here, and the solder-free application of the tiny decorations is truly exceptional. Element losses and crush injuries are extremely common in cannetille pieces, and the survival of this jewel, in this condition is remarkable. There is a small repair at the rear: a soldered link connecting the dropper to the main body, but that is all. Likely the necklace was once part of a parure, there are two small hooks at the rear to either side of the central dropper where small additional pendants could optionally be hung, obviously these are missing now but it is truly exceptional that this delicate piece has survived at all. Cannetille jewellery of this complexity and fineness is extremely rare. The chain is of braided rope construction and in excellent condition. The spring ring clasp is a later replacement. IN IMMEDIATELY WEARABLE CONDITION BUT PLEASE REMEMBER THAT ANTIQUE JEWELLERY IS DELICATE. THERE APPEARS TO BE A SMALL FRENCH HALLMARK TO THE SUSPENSION RING OF THE DROPPER, AND POSSIBLY ELSEWHERE ON THE MAIN PENDANT BODY BUT MY LOUPE CANNOT DEFINITIVELY IDENTIFY IT, HOWEVER THE ENTIRE PIECE IS GUARANTEED A MINIMUM OF 18ct GOLD PLEASE STUDY ALL PICTURES CLOSELY AS THESE REPRESENT THE BEST AND MOST OBJECTIVE DESCRIPTION, FOR MORE IMAGES OR INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT ME!