Nicosia

This article covers only the southern side of the city under control of the Republic of Cyprus; see Nicosia (North) for the Turkish-Cypriot capital on the northern side.

For other places with the same name, see Nicosia (disambiguation).

Nicosia (Greek: Λευκωσία; Turkish: Lefkoşa) is the capital of Cyprus and is the largest city by far.

While it may not boast the same abundance of archaeological sites and lively beaches as other parts of Cyprus, the city's Old Town, with its museums and churches, is still a pleasant place to explore. What's more, with fewer tourists than the resorts on the southern coast, Nicosia maintains a more authentically Cypriot atmosphere.

Take a stroll through the city's charming streets, where you'll find delightful cafes serving traditional Cypriot coffee, as well as woodworking shops tucked away in unexpected corners. And don't miss the opportunity to visit the Green Line, the boundary that divides North from South. As the financial and administrative center of the island, Nicosia is a haven for shopping enthusiasts.

Understand

Cafés along Onasagorou Street in the evening

Nicosia is one of the very few divided capitals in the world. The barbed wire and guardtowers of the Green Line cuts the town in two, with the northern side being the capital of the self-proclaimed Northern Cyprus and the southern half being the capital of the Republic of Cyprus.

The municipality of Nicosia governs only the central portion, but the city now sprawls for several kilometers and has engulfed surrounding villages and settlements. The population of the Greek part hovers around 245,000 in 2020 (a third of the total population of Cyprus), but the city has a feel of one much larger. It is the administrative and financial hub of the island as well as home to several universities, colleges and other educational establishments. It hosts most foreign embassies and offshore companies (a big industry in Cyprus nowadays). Along with its international students and foreign workers it has developed a truly cosmopolitan feel. It also acts as a separate administrative capital for the Nicosia district.

Climate

Nicosia
Climate chart (explanation)
J F M A M J J A S O N D       55     16 6       42     16 5       28     19 7       20     24 10       24     30 15       18     34 19       5.8     37 22       1.3     37 22       12     34 19       17     29 16       55     22 10       66     17 7 Average max. and min. temperatures in °C Precipitation+Snow totals in mm Source:w:Nicosia#Climate
Imperial conversion J F M A M J J A S O N D       2.2     60 42       1.6     61 41       1.1     67 45       0.8     76 50       0.9     85 59       0.7     94 67       0.2     99 72       0.1     98 71       0.5     92 66       0.7     84 60       2.1     72 51       2.6     63 45 Average max. and min. temperatures in °F Precipitation+Snow totals in inches

One of the southernmost locations in Europe, Nicosia's climate is classified as subtropical and semi-arid. Summers are very hot and dry, you can expect temperatures to regularly rise above 35°C. Pleasantly warm temperatures are common early in the spring and late in the autumn, making these good times to visit. Winter is the wettest time of the year, though even then just 7-8 days of the month see rain. During mid-winter, the temperature may sometimes drop below freezing and light frost and sleet occurs, but snowfall is very rare.

History

Cyprus is in the Levant, and as with other places in this part of the world it has a long and tumultuous history and has seen many great empires come and go. Taking that into consideration, Nicosia has surprisingly few sights dating back from antiquity or even from the middle ages.

Nicosia is in the middle of the island and the region has been inhabited since around 2500 BC. A city-state by the name of Ledra was established here sometimes after the end of the Trojan War (1180 BC), though not much of it is known today. By 330 BC Ledra was recorded as a small unimportant farming town. The following high point came in the Byzantine Era. In the 4th century AD the town became a bishopric seat and it got its current (Greek and Turkish) name, Lefkosia. Nicosia grew as an agricultural centre, and unlike the richer coastal cities it wasn't destroyed by Arab raids. Around 965 the Byzantine governor moved the administration to Nicosia, and since then it has been the capital of the island albeit under many different administrations.

The Venetian city walls

With the crusades came the rule by Western European powers. The Frankish Kingdom of Cyprus was established in 1192 as a base for crusades to the Holy Land. During that time, the first city walls were built, as well as some notable churches (now in North Nicosia). Over the years Genoan and Venetian merchants established themselves and competed for influence over the island, and in 1489 the last queen sold the administration to the Republic of Venice. Venice had been fighting one war after another with the Ottoman Empire for some time already, and during the following decades Nicosia was attacked multiple times. A new fortification system, which still stands, was built in 1567-70, but in the same year it was finished, the Ottomans captured Nicosia after a siege of 40 days.

After that Nicosia largely lay in ruins, and the population fell by 95%. From then on the inhabitants comprised Ottoman Muslims and Greek Orthodox Christians; the former settled in the north of the city and the latter in the south. Over the years the Ottoman Empire slowly declined, to the point that it was dubbed the "Sick man of Europe". In order to protect the empire from Russian incursions (as in the Russo-Turkish war of 1877), Cyprus was traded to the British in 1878 in exchange for protection against Russia. By then, Greece had gained independence from the Ottoman Empire, and many Greek-Cypriots hoped for the island to become united (enosis) with Greece.

Like the Venetian rule, the British rule would also last about 80 years. Most of it went relatively peacefully, but after World War II, the opinion turned against the colonial rule. The pro-independence EOKA organization was founded, and from 1955 on bomb attacks and rioting became common in Nicosia and elsewhere in Cyprus. As a result the independent Republic of Cyprus was established in 1960. The Greek Cypriots still dreamed about enosis with Greece, whereas the Turkish Cypriots who were afraid of what would happen to them now (and especially if such a union would take place), instead demanded a division of the island. In the following years the two groups were fighting each other.

The Green Line

In July 1974, the military junta ruling Greece orchestrated a coup d'état, installing a pro-enosis leader. Turkey replied by invading the island a few days later, capturing the northeastern third of Cyprus, including the northern half of Nicosia and establishing the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). After the ceasefire, the UN established a buffer zone (aka the Green Line) between the two parts of the island and stationed peacekeepers there. Even as Northern Cyprus isn't recognized by anyone but Turkey, it is de facto a separate state from Cyprus, and Nicosia is a divided city. Since 2003 it's less divided than it used to be when the first border crossing between the Republic and TRNC was opened at the Ledra Palace Hotel (now there are several of them both in Nicosia and elsewhere).

The Cyprus peace process is ongoing as of 2023. A plan to unite the country was turned down in a 2004 referendum, and thereafter peace talks have stalled many times. But from a traveller's point of view the situation is peaceful, and you can safely explore the two sides of the city (and the country).

Get in

By plane

Nicosia International Airport (NIC  ^IATA) has been closed off since the partition of the country. 1 Larnaca Airport (LCA ^IATA) (40 km, 30-min drive) has scheduled flights to all major European cities. An airport shuttle bus operates between Larnaca Airport and Nicosia, but this bus does not stop close to the city center so you will have to take a taxi or walk to the highway and take a public bus from there. Further away, the smaller 2 Paphos Airport (PFO ^IATA) is a 140-km (1 hr 40 min) drive from Nicosia.

By boat

Limassol (80 km away) and Larnaca (40 km away) ports have passenger terminals with ferry and cruise ship services to the Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Greece. Timetables vary considerably with the summer season being the busiest.

By road

Nearly all visitors arrive via the southern highway from Larnaca (43 km) and Limassol (83 km). Regular, cheap and reliable intercity taxi and bus services connect Nicosia to the centre of Cyprus' other cities. Private hire taxis are considerably more expensive. Car hire is also affordable and all major car hire companies are represented at both airports. Cyprus By Bus provides information about buses in Nicosia. Nicosia's 3 central bus station is at Solomos square, next to the city wall.

To/from North Nicosia

People going through Northern Cyprus immigration at the Ledra Street crossing.

Entry from Northern Cyprus to south Nicosia used to be close to impossible. However, following a thawing in relations, it is possible for EU citizens to cross the border at official crossing points, regardless of their point of entry to the island. People from other parts of the world will likely be turned back at crossing point. For details on how you can cross the border, please see the Cyprus page.

The Ledra Street crossing (as opposed to Ledra Palace Hotel crossing) allows people to cross again from North to South Nicosia and vice-versa. The crossing traverses the United Nations Buffer Zone dividing Southern and Northern Cyprus. The (Greek) Republic of Cyprus does not maintain an immigration post at the crossing but conducts ID checks, while Northern Cyprus maintains an immigration and customs checkpoint on its side of the border.

If you're taking a taxi to North Nicosia before crossing, do not say "Ledra" because everyone in Northern Cyprus will assume the Ledra Palace crossing, which is outside the city walls to the west.

Get around

By foot

Greater Nicosia sprawls for kilometers on end, but the Old City is small enough to navigate on foot. Traditional Greek Cypriot shops line the streets of the Old City, and with very narrow footpaths/walkways, traffic must always be observed. GPS navigation systems may not include Cyprus, but a paper map can be picked up (free of charge) from the Nicosia Cyprus Tourism Organisation (CTO) Information Office (in Laiki Geitonia).

By bus

Nicosia is developing a more extensive network of bus services that connect the ever expanding sprawl. Transport is inexpensive, however timetables remain unreliable and only a few buses are air conditioned.

By taxi

Private taxis abound, they are usually diesel Mercedes cars, and always have a number plate starting with the letter T. Some even have a yellow TAXI (or ΤΑΞΙ in Greek) sign above. Unlike other world cities, they are not in a distinctive colour. Make sure the meter is turned on the second you enter, as tourist expoitation is as common here as everywhere else in the world!

By bike

A cheaper alternative to buses and taxis is to use the bike sharing system Bike in Action. Smart card needed.

See

Nicosia's sights are concentrated in and around the Old City, surrounded by a picturesque star-shaped city wall whose moat has been converted into a pleasant park. Wandering around the Old City is an interesting experience in itself, although some buildings (esp. those near the Green Line) are derelict and crumbling. Many sights in the Old City close early, so try to get an early start - also a good idea for beating the heat in the summer.

Museums

Front façade of the Cyprus Museum

• 1 Cyprus Museum (Κυπριακό Μουσείο) (Cyprus Archaeological Museum), 1 Mouseiou Street (west of the city wall, in between the Tripoli bastion and the municipal gardens). Tu-F 08:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-17:00, Su 10:00-13:00, M closed; closed New Year's, Easter, Christmas. Showcases the best of Cypriot archeology from the 9th millennium BCE to the end of antiquity. There is a café on the grounds. Free. (updated Oct 2019)
• 2 Byzantine Museum (Archbishop Kyprianou Square), ☏ +357 22 430008. M-F 09:00-16:30, Sa 08:00-12:00, Su closed. Easily spotted thanks to the giant statue of Archbishop Makarios standing outside, has one of the world's best collections of Orthodox icons and other artworks, mostly ranging from the 9th to the 16th century. €2. 
• 3 National Struggle Museum, Kiniras 7. Daily 08:00-12:00. Documents the history of the Cypriot independence movement (1955-1959), with a rather positive spin on the EOKA guerrilla movement. €1. 
• 4 Leventis Municipal Museum, Ippokratous 17, Laiki Yitonia, ☏ +357-22673375. Tu-Su 10:00-16:30. Housed in a converted, two-storey house since 1984 the Leventis Municipal Museum has exhibits dating from 2300 BC to the present day. Voted European Museum of the Year in 1991. Free. (updated Oct 2022)

House of the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis

• 5 House of the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios, Patriarch Gregoriou St, ☏ +357-302447. M-F 08:00-14:00, Sa 09:00-13:00, Su closed. A beautifully restored 18th-century building now housing an ethnological museum. €1.  
• 6 Museum of the History of Cypriot Coinage, Bank of Cyprus Administrative Headquarters, 51 Stasinou Str., Agia Paraskevi, ☏ +357-22677134. M-F 08:00-14:30. A numismatics museum with hundreds of coins on display, from ancient to modern spanning nearly 3,000 years of coinage history on the island. 
• 7 Ledra Observatory Museum (Shacolas Tower Museum and Observatory), Ledra street, Shakolas Building, ☏ +357-22679369. Daily 10:00-20:00. The Shakolas (older Nicosians know it by its former name The Mangli) building sticks out like a sore thumb in the medieval old city. To reach the observatory you have to go into the Debenhams shopping complex which is right in the middle of Ledra street, a mini skyscraper of 12 floors, towers over other buildings not rising higher than 2-3 floors. On its penultimate floor you find the observatory, where it's possible “to see” the division of the island. There is a café up on the sixth floor which also has some nice views which you can enjoy should it be quiet, but usually there are paying customers sitting at the best viewpoints. Entrance to the observatory on the 11th floor is a low €2.50 so it's a must-see. €2.50.  
• 8 The Cyprus Classic Motorcycle Museum, 44 Granikou Str., ☏ +357-99543215, cyclassicmotorcyclemuseum@cytanet.com.cy. M-F 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00, Sa 09:00-14:00. Privately owned, this is the only such museum on the island and is tucked away in the medieval city. On display are about 150 classic (mostly British) motorcycles dating from 1914 to 1983.  

• 9 Cyprus Museum of Natural History, Odysseos (Dáli, about 8 km south of central Nicosia). M-F 08:30-13:00. Museum showcasing the animal life of Cyprus and the Mediterranean, including mammals, marine life, insects and fossils. There's also an exhibition about dinosaurs, as well as mammals from North America. Free entrance. (updated Apr 2020)

• 10 Cyprus Police Museum, corner of Lemesou Avenue and RIK. M-F 09:00-13:00. Learn more about the history of law enforcement on the island. On display are police equipment from different periods, and items and documents related to infamous crimes and 20th century conflicts. The museum was opened in 1933 in the main police station, and got its own dedicated building in 2004. Free entrance. (updated Apr 2020)

• 11 Cyprus Postal Museum, Agiou Savva 3b. M-F 09:00-15:00, Sa 09:00-13:00. Presents the postal history from the Venetian era, and has a very large collection of stamps. (updated Apr 2020)

• 12 Cyprus Folk Art Museum (Ethnographic Museum of Cyprus), Square of Archbishop Kyprianos. Now housed in the old Archibiscopric Palace, the museum holds more than 5000 exhibits of folk art: clothing, tools, pottery, artwork and paintings. In the museum shop there are traditional handicraft for sale, and the museum cafe has traditional drinks and snacks. (updated Apr 2020)

• 13 VON World Pens Hall, Dimostheni Severi 37. Established by an avid pen collector, Vladimiros Ouloupis Niros (V.O.N.), the museum has hundreds of pens on display, some of them dating back to the 17th century, and accesoires like inkpots, seals and stamps. There's also a reading room with rare books. (updated Apr 2020)

Art galleries

Women's bazaar by Telemachos Kanthos, part of the Leventis Gallery's Cyprus collections

• 14 Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre, 19 Apostolou Varnava Str, ☏ +357-22432577, fax: +357 22432531, info@nimac.com.cy. Housed in a converted old power station built in 1936. The building sat derelict for 20 years and reopened as a contemporary art gallery in 1994. Includes a decent cafe-restaurant with an imaginative Mediterranean menu. Winner of a 1994 Europa Nostra award. (updated Apr 2021)

• 15 Leventis Gallery, 5 Leonidou street. M 10:00-17:00, Tu closed, W 10:00-22:00, Th-Sa 10:00-17:00. Cypriot and European paintings. There are temporary exhibitions, in addition to the three permanent exhibitions; the Greek, the Paris and the Cyprus collections. (updated Apr 2020)

• 16 The Office gallery, Kleanthi Christofidi 32. Modern art gallery next to the Green Zone, open during exhibitions (there are no permanent exhibitions). (updated Apr 2020)

Religious buildings

• 17 Holy Mother of God Cathedral (Surp Asdvadzadzin Church), Elefsinos. To replace the main church of Nicosia's Armenian community which was left on the Turkish side, the Surp Asdvadzadzin Church was built and opened in 1981. It's the only church built in traditional Armenian style on Cyprus, and around it there are also other monuments related to the Armenian community, like the Armenian Genocide Monument, a marble khachkar (Armenian cross stone) and several statues. (updated Apr 2020)

The Archbishop's Palace and the St. John's Cathedral

• 18 Archbishop's Palace and St. John's Cathedral. The residence of the Archbishop of the Church of Cyprus. It's built in neo-Byzatine style and finished in 1960. Not open to the public, but viewable from the outside. Next to the palace are the old palace, as well as St. John's cathedral, the main church of Cyprus, constructed in 1662 on the site of a former Benedictine monastery. On the palace grounds are also the Byzantine museum and the National Struggle museum. (updated Apr 2020)

• 19 Archangel Michael Trypiotis Church. Orthodox church built in 1695 according to an inscription, but its icon of Archangel Michael is older. Other points of interest of this church are its beautiful 18th-century iconostasis and the relics of Saint Riginos. (updated Apr 2020)

• 20 Bayraktar Mosque. Built and expanded gradually during the 18th and 19th centuries, around the tomb of an unknown Ottoman flagbearer (bayraktar) who fell during the conquest of Cyprus in 1570. The mosque went through some rough times during the violent decades after World War II, being bombed three times and heavily vandalized in 1975, possibly in retribution for the Turkish invasion. Since 2003 it has been open to worshippers again. (updated Apr 2020)

• 21 Ömeriye Mosque, Platia Tillirias. Open for both worshipers and visitors, Ömeriye is regarded as the most important mosque in the non-Turkish part of Cyprus. The mosque was built in 1571, when the island came under Ottoman rule after the Ottoman-Venetian War. (updated Apr 2020)

Monuments and architecture

The aqueduct

• 22 Famagusta Gate (Leoforos Athinon). One of Nicosia's three old gates, it has been turned into the Lefkosia Municipal Cultural Centre, used for various exhibitions and performances. 

• 23 Liberty Monument (Podocatoro Bastion). A monument to honour the fighters of the EOKA guerilla organization against the British colonial rule during the Cyprus emergency in the 1950s. (updated Apr 2020)

• 24 Nicosia aqueduct. Remains of an Ottoman aqueduct from the 18th century, part of the old water supply system bringing water from the mountains to Nicosia. (updated Apr 2020)

• 25 Tower 25. Also called the White Walls, this high-rise apartment building was finished in 2013, and in 2016 it was awarded the Best Tall Building Europe by the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat. (updated Apr 2020)

• Walls of Nicosia. The old city walls with its bastions encircle the city, both the current northern and southern part of it. Certainly the most visible attraction in the city, the walls very built in the 16th century by the Venetians. (updated Apr 2020)

Squares

• 26 Faneromeni Square. An important historical square dating from Venetian times, and until 1974 considered the heart of the city. Faneromeni square is surrounded by historical buildings and monuments such as the Faneromeni Church, Faneromeni School, Faneromeni Library, and the Marble Mausoleum. (updated Apr 2020)

• 27 Eleftheria Square. This square next to the city walls has taken over Faneromeni's role; major events and rallies take place here. (updated Apr 2020)

Do

Explore the smaller city streets, small enough to easily do this on foot. Visit a traditional Cypriot cafe, and sample a Cypriot coffee. Greet the locals. Make sure you visit the Green Line and view all of the city from the Watchtower, into North and South Nicosia.

Spa

Hamam Omeriye, Nicosia

• 1 Hamam Omerye, 8 Tyllirias Square, 1016 Lefkosia. In the heart of the old town within the ancient Venetian walls. Find your way to the 'Ohi' Round about, then head straight all the way until you find the Omeriye Mosque on your right - you can't miss it. Turn right here and the Hamam Baths are on your left. 14th-century building restored to operate once again as a Turkish bath. The site's history dates back to the 14th century, when it stood as an Augustinian church of St. Mary, built by the Lusignan (French) and later maintained by the Venetians. In 1571, Mustapha Pasha converted the church into a mosque, believing that this particular spot is where the prophet Omer rested during his visit to Lefkosia. Most of the original building was destroyed by Ottoman artillery, although the door of the main entrance still belongs to the 14th-century Lusignan building, whilst remains of a later Renaissance phase can be seen at the north-eastern side of the monument. Couples on Mondays, men only Tu Th Sa, women only W F Su. €20/two hours, including towels, disposable underwear, tea, and sponge. 

Cinema

In bygone times Nicosia was dotted with dozens of open air and closed cinemas offering films from local, Greek, Turkish and Hollywood producers. The advent of the video player and other home entertainment systems has strangled this industry and now only a handful of cinemas remain, none of which are open air. These offer the latest blockbuster movies from Hollywood and occasionally the odd arthouse European film. Most will be screened in their original language with Greek subtitles. The annual Cyprus International Film Festival is the local Cannes equivalent. Expect to see great movies, but not the same calibre of stars.

• 2 K. Cineplex, 115 Makedonitissis, Strovolos, ☏ +357-22355824. Modern multiscreen theatre, not much different to what one would find anywhare else in the world. (updated Jan 2020)

• 3 Zena Palace Cinema, 18 Theofanous Theodotou, ☏ +357-22674128. One of the oldest venues, has escaped the bulldozer by a thin film. (updated Jan 2020)

The Friends of Cinema Society was the first to bring forward to the Cypriot viewer, films from countries as diverse and distant as China, Iran, and Japan. With the popularity and recognition of Greek cinema, the Cypriot viewer was able to finally view modern, Greek productions by distinguished artists. Through various festivals (European, French, Spanish, German), Cyprus is able to admire films which are awarded important prizes by international critics, thus bringing state-of-the-art trends of world cinema to Cyprus.

Sport

APOEL-Real Madrid game on the GSP Stadium

• Football: the Cypriot men's national soccer team play at GSP Stadium (capacity 22,800) by the A1 ten km south of city centre.

Three city clubs share GSP Stadium: APOEL and Omonoia both in the Cypriot top tier, and Olympiakos relegated in 2023 to the second tier.

• 4 Horse Racing (Nicosia Race Club), Ayios Dometios, ☏ +357 22782727, fax: +357 22775690, info@nicosiaraceclub.com.cy. The small and picturesque race track has a colonial feel to it. Emotions run high here every Wednesday and Sunday. Check website or call them for race timetable. 
• 5 Tennis. Cyprus plays its home Davis Cup matches at the Field Club. Clay courts line the moat that was once covered with water protecting the city from medieval invaders. It has a colonial feel to it. Again, if you are lucky you might catch Marcos Baghdatis playing for Cyprus. (updated Jan 2020)

Buy

The traditional shopping district runs along 1 Ledra street and its tributary roads within the medieval walls of the city. A bustle of traditional jewelers, shoe and fabric shops give a blend of Middle Eastern and European feel. 2 Laiki Geitonia is a pedestrianised neighbourhood that has been preserved in its original architecture and is the best quarter if you are after souvenir shops. Big chains (e.g. Marks and Spencer, Zara) line the more modern 3 Makariou Avenue. 4 Stasikratous street has evolved into a mini local version of 5th Avenue/Bond street with expensive brands such as Armani and Versace stores. All the above are within walking distance of each other.

There are no real department stores in a purist sense, but Ermes (this chain inherited and re-branded the old local Woolworths) has several mini department stores across the island and a couple on Makarios Avenue. Alpha-Mega is a local hypermarket chains (worthy equivalent of a Tesco or Wal-Mart) where it would be difficult not to find what you were after. Most of their stores however, are located in the suburbs.

International newspapers and periodicals (especially in the English language) are widely available but you can inevitably find them at the large kiosks (periptera) planted at the two corners of Eleftheria Square. These kiosks are open 24/7.

Eat

Halloumi, one of the most famous dishes of the Cypriot cuisine

Traditional Cypriot cuisine is a melting pot of south European, Balkan and Middle Eastern influences. You will find most Greek, Turkish and Arabic dishes, often with a local name or twist. It is now decades since Cyprus has established itself as a tourist hotspot and as a consequence many of the local chefs have trained in Europe and elsewhere, bringing their experiences back home with them. As such most international cuisines are well represented (but unfortunately so are McDonald's & gang). In summary good food is not difficult to come by and most westerners will find dining quite affordable.

The shopping district is dotted with local tavernas and the likes of KFC and Pizza Hut. Virtually all restaurants allow smoking, (and unfortunately some don't even have a non-smoking area, and most restaurants with the non-smoking area don't enforce it). Al fresco dining is a luxury that can be enjoyed for over half the year. It would be a crime not to try (at least once) a mixed pork kebab with a chilled local KEO or Carlsberg (which is brewed locally and tastes different to the same brand overseas) beer. Carnivores are spoilt for choice, whilst vegetarians might find it a tad difficult.

The food is high quality and somewhat cheaper than in the most Western capitals. Snacks should be available from €2-4, kebabs from €7 and whole meals from €15-20. Local KEO beer costs around €4 a pint in bars, local wines starting from €10 a bottle. Hygienic standards are followed and even foods that usually are not recommended in the Mediterranean destinations, such as mayonnaise and salad-based foods, can be safely eaten.

Budget

• Kebab houses. The epitome of Cyprus fast food. There is no neighbourhood without its local (99% of these are family-run businesses) so follow the BBQ smoke or smell. Try a traditional mixed kebab (aka souvlakia/sheftalia) with a cold KEO beer. That should set you back €12 at the most.
• Sandwich kiosks. Several line Regina Str in central Nicosia close to Eleftheria Square. Some also offer doner kebab (gyros). You might have to stand whilst eating.

• Toronto Pizza. The first local pizza chain created by a Cypriot returning from Canada. Now has over a dozen outlets, some of which have seating but some are only for home delivery/takeaway. Choose this over Pizza Hut or Domino's. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 1 Toronto Pizza Agioi Omologites, Kasou 14. This one is the closest to the city centre. (updated Feb 2023)
• 2 Piatsa Gourounaki, Faneromenis 92, ☏ +357 77787777. M-Sa 12:30-16:00 and 19:00-23:00. Greek restaurant with large servings specializing in meat dishes, but also has some vegetarian ones on the menu. mains around €6-8, also has different types of pita for €3-4 (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)
• 3 Cookshop, Pindarou 6A, ☏ +357 99 012307. lunch M-Sa 12:00-15:30, dinner F 19:00-22:30. Dishes from many European and Middle Eastern cuisines. Friendly but sometimes slow service. Reservation is recommended. Has a nice price menu with mains for €8.50, and their regular menu with mains €10-15 (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)
• 4 Syrian Friendship Club, Vasilissis Amalias 17, ☏ +357 22 776246. daily 12:00-23:00. Syrian restaurant with fresh food and plentiful servings and as such good value for money. Appetizers €2-5, mains €7-10, full meze €18/person (min. 2 persons) (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)
• 5 Toanamma, Ledra 89, ☏ +35722210200. Greek and Cypriot cuisine; mainly different kinds of grilled meat. pitas €3-7, mains €8-14 (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)
• 6 Habibi, Ippokratous 16A, ☏ +357 77 777737, info@habibi.com.cy. daily 11:00-23:00. Syrian restaurant with salads, döner and sandwiches. €5-7 (Apr 2020). (updated Dec 2022)

Mid-range

Pastries at a Nicosia bakery

• 7 Erodos Cafe-Restaurant, Erodos Patriarhou Gregoriou 1, Old Town Lefkosia, ☏ +357 22 752250, info@visiterodos.com. Within the Venetian walls and in the heart of Old Town. Live music, fine wines, good beers and traditional, yet eccentric gastronomy. (updated Feb 2023)
• 8 Zanettos, 65 Trikoupi Street, ☏ +357 22 765501. Hidden away in the narrow streets of the old city, this can be difficult to locate alone. Ask any cab driver though and it's as much as a landmark as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. Around since 1938, it serves traditional Greek-Cypriot meze at €14 a head. Booking is essential. 
• 9 Akakiko, Achaion 1, Engomi, adjacent to Hilton Nicosia, ☏ +357 77 778022. Asian-Japanese Sushi restaurant. Part of an Austrian franchise and not much different to a Benihana. Average €20-30 a head. 
• 10 Plaka Tavern, 65 Poseidonos Ave, 8042 Engomi, ☏ +357-22352898, +357-22590944. The quintessential Cypriot taverna, set in the middle of old Engomi (a Nicosia suburb) with tables spilling out on the street offering a strong meze. €15/head. 
• 11 Artisans Burgerbar, Stasandrou 20, ☏ +357 22 759300, hello@artisansburgerbar.com. Su–Th 12:00-22:30, F Sa 12:00-23:00. Hamburgers that can be customized in many different ways, also serves salads, different small dishes, and steaks. Reportedly very good burgers, though prices are a bit steep. small dishes €5-10, burgers around €13, steaks €15-25 (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)

Streetside cafés at Faneromeni Square

• 12 Rokoko, Odos Christodoulou Sozou 21, ☏ +357 22 254525. daily 19:00-00:30. Popular Italian restaurant; here you can get for instance pizza, pasta and dishes like cotoletta alla milanese. mains around €10-20 (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)
• 13 Xefoto, Aischylou 6, Laiki Yitonia, ☏ +357-22666567. Traditional food in a traditional setting. Serves mezes too. The tables spill onto the pavement for the al-fresco months of the year. Live music on weekend nights. Open daily from 11:00 till late. €15-20/head. 

Splurge

• 14 Pyxida Fish Tavern, Menandrou 5, ☏ +357 22445636. daily 12:00-16:00, 19:00-23:00. High quality seafood with prices to match. Long menu with different fish, prawns, mussels, octopus, and lobster dishes. mains around €15, also more expensive dishes on the list (Apr 2020). (updated Feb 2023)
• 15 Domus Lounge Bar, Adamantiou Korae 5, ☏ +357 22 433722. daily 19:30-02:30. Mediterranean, mainly Italian, fine dining restaurant with indoor dining in the winter and outdoor in the summer. It has a bar and a wine cellar. mains about €20-25 (Apr 2020). (updated Dec 2022)

Drink

The substantial student population supports a flourishing industry of bars, pubs and nightclubs which keep the old city alive. Cypriots are true socialites and spend most of their time out as opposed to at home. In line with other south European countries going out is unheard of before 22:00-23:00. There is no official nightlife reference point but Makarios avenue turns into a catwalk cum cruising strip for Porsche owner show-offs. If you are after a more traditional flavour (generally catering for an older population) you could try a bouzouki bar.

Bars will stock the usual international brands of spirits. Local giants KEO beer and Carlsberg (the only other brand brewed on the island)also Leon beer, the first Cyprus brew, was relaunched 4 decades after it was last produced and traded in the market of Cyprus. Based on the original Leon recipe that was used in 1937, Leon is a pure all malt beer characterised by a rich and strong taste and aromahave a universal presence. Local wines are now making a comeback after years of medioaracy and decline. Commandaria is the pride of Cyprus' dessert wines. The local spirit zivania (very similar to grappa) is usually drank as shots straight from the freezer. Cyprus brandy was introduced about 150 years ago and differs from other continental brandies in its lower alcohol content (around 32%). As such it is often drank by locals whilst eating (and before and after) and is the basic ingredient for a local cocktail, The Brandy Sour. Local Ouzo is also another favourite.

Cafés

Coffee culture is a way of life in Nicosia. It is the place to see and be seen in the afternoon to early evening. In the summer months, tables spill on to the streets. The posh cafés line Makarios Avenue, intertwined with shops. Starbucks and Costa coffee have invaded the island but local equivalents also survive. For a change don't stick to the latté/cappuccino, try a Greek coffee. In the summer you must order a frappé (iced coffee).

• 1 Pralina Café (Pralina Experience), 31 Stasikratous Street, ☏ +357 22 660 491. The flagship café of a confectionery chain. A chocolate addict's paradise. You can easily overdose on sweets here, and before you know it, your diet is down the drain forever. The coffee is not bad either. 

Bars and pubs

There is not much of a distinction between the two, most will serve beer, wine, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages. Many will now serve food too, but kitchens usually close earlier than the bar.

Babylon Bar & Restaurant

• 2 Babylon, 6 Iasonos Street, ☏ +357 22 665757, neocleouspavlos@gmail.com. Popular, long-established bar in a converted 1950s house. Has a large beer garden for the hot summers and cosy log fires for the cold winters. 
• 3 The Corner Pub, 48 Demostheni Severi Avenue, ☏ +357-22665735. As the name suggests it’s a pub and on a corner. Some consider it a spooky shrine to Man Utd football club; its walls are adjourned with countless memorabilia and photos. Has several large projection screens so good for watching popular football games. 
• 4 Plato's Bar, 8-10 Platonos St, ☏ +357-22666552. Long-established and popular, in the old city in an old converted house. Prides itself on its incredible range of beers, wines, malts and spirits selection. Good food menu. Has a beautiful yard open all year round featuring two massive fireplaces in the Winter. Nice Rock, Blues, Indie and Alternative sounds. Opens at 20:00 all year round. Entrance is not allowed to men with sleeveless T-shirts. 
• 5 Vinocultura, 20 Kyriakou Matsi, ☏ +357 22 676707, info@vinocultura.net. daily 18:00-01:00. Wine bar and shop, with wine seminars and classes and hundreds of wines. They serve many different tapas too. (updated Apr 2020)
• 6 Moondogs, Mykinon 7, ☏ +357 70 006300. daily 12:00-02:00. Bar and grill, with a very wide selection of beer (Belgian beers especially) which are also sold in their beer store as well as other drinks, burgers and salads on the food side, and regularly live music (rock). (updated Apr 2020)

• 7 Murphy's Pub, Alkeou 11, ☏ +357 96 313263. M-Th 10:00-02:00, F Sa 10:00-04:00, Su 10:00-00:00. British-style pub with occasional live music and football on tv. (updated Apr 2020)

Sleep

Being more of an administrative city plus the financial hub of the island, hotels tend to cater more for business travelers. Accommodation choice is more limited than the purely tourist destinations that line the coast

Nicosia by night

Budget

• 1 Averof Hotel, 19 Averof Str., ☏ +357-22773447, fax: +357-22773411, averof@spidernet.com.cy. A cheaper hotel in a very residential area. Rooms with A/C, tv, and some with balcony. sgl €35, dbl €55. 
• 2 Sky Hotel, 7C Solonos Street (near the City Hall), ☏ +357 22666880. Budget hotel. Rooms with A/C and tv. Friendly staff and big rooms, but some travellers report the rooms may be dirty. rates from €60. 
• 3 Asty Hotel, Prigkipos Karolou 12, ☏ +357 22 773030, reservations@astyhotel.com. Rooms have private bathroom, cable tv, A/C. Free Wi-Fi. The hotel has a restaurant and bar, as well as common areas (sitting room, library, verandah) and a gym and laundry room. In the 2010s, this hotel has won several awards of booking.com and Tripadvisor. sgl from €45, dbl from €65. (updated Apr 2020)

• 4 Kipros Accommodation, Vasileiou Voulgaroktonou 16A, ☏ +357 96 299435, vrahimimarina@gmail.com. Family-run hotel in an old building. Rooms have private bathroom (a bit small), tv, and balcony. Free Wi-Fi. rates from €44. (updated Apr 2020)

• 5 Delphi Hotel, Kostaki Pantelidi 24, ☏ +357 22 665211. Clean but basic hotel. Laundry service. Free Wi-Fi. rates around €50. (updated Apr 2020)

Mid-range

• 6 Castelli Hotel, 38 Ouzounian Str., ☏ +357-22712812, fax: +357-22680176, reservations@kennedy-hotels.com. Rooms with A/C, tv, bathroom and what you would expect from a mid-range hotel room. Some rooms have a balcony. The hotel has a bar, the restaurant is for breakfast only. rates from €68, including breakfast. 
• 7 Centrum Hotel, 15 Pasikratous Str., ☏ +357-22456444, fax: +357-22873560, info@centrumhotel.net. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Cosy, 40-room hotel with a bar on the ground floor. Offers free WiFi access and includes breakfast. single €89, double €109. 
• 8 Classic Hotel, 94 Rigenis Str., ☏ +357-22664006, fax: +357-22670072, classichotel@gapgroup.com. Called Classic, but in fact very minimalistic and chic with wooden floors. Some limited conferencing facilities. Run by GAP Vasilopoulos, one of Cyprus' largest conglomerates. dbl €105. 
• 9 Cleopatra Hotel, 8 Florinis Str., ☏ +357-22844000, fax: +357-22844222. A family-run hotel close to the city centre and within walking distance of the shopping district. Swimming pool, bars and WiFi internet access. sgl €152, dbl €175. 
• 10 Europa Plaza Hotel, 13 Alkaios Str, ☏ +357 22692692, fax: +357-22664417, info@europahotel.com.cy. 50-room hotel with wifi internet targeting the business traveller. Small conference room available too. rates from €70. 
• 11 Royiatiko Hotel, 27 Apollonos Street (City Centre), ☏ +357 22445445. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Central location with an outdoor swimming pool. Brands itself as a "business hotel", and as such has a business centre and conference room. Rooms have the equipment rooms in mid-range hotels have, but are a bit dated. rates from €106. 

Splurge

• 12 Hilton Nicosia, Achaion 1, Egkomi 2413 (next to the business district), ☏ +357-22695111, Hilton.Nicosia@hilton.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. The only Hilton hotel in Cyprus. There are 3 restaurants, including a Japanese option, as well as 3 bars and indoor/outdoor pools. rates from €253.  
• 13 The Landmark Nicosia, 98 Archbishop Makarios III Avenue, ☏ +357-22-377777, reservations@thelandmarknicosia.com. Luxury rooms, all with balconies. The hotel has two restaurants, a bar and two lounges. It also has a wellness and a business center and a few shops. rates from €174. 

• 14 Central Park Residence, Evagorou 25, ☏ +357 25 247000, sales@olympicresidence.com. A 21-storey building with fully equipped luxury apartments, some of which are available for short term rental. The building also has a spa complex. upon request. (updated Apr 2020)

Stay safe

Crime rates are generally low in Cyprus. Pickpockets and petty theft are a risk at touristed areas, and some scams may be prevalent in bars, though may be less of a problem than at the beach resorts.

Don't stray into the buffer zone other than at designated crossing points, and don't feel tempted to photograph military and police installations.

Connect

There's 4G coverage throughout Nicosia. Places to sleep also commonly offer free Wi-Fi.

Cope

Embassies

• Egypt, 14 Ayois Prokopios, 2406, Engomi, ☏ +357-22-449050, fax: +357-22-449081, info@egyptianembassy.org.cy. 08:30-14:30. 
• Finland, 9, Arch. Makarios Avenue, Severis Building, 2nd floor, 1065, ☏ +357-22-458 020, fax: +357-22-447 880, sanomat.nic@formin.fi. 
• Romania, St. Piraeos 27, ☏ +357 22 495 333, +357 22 517 333, nicosia@mae.ro. (updated Dec 2021)
• 1 United States, Metochiou & Ploutarchou St 2407, Engomi, ☏ +357 22 393939, consularnicosia@state.gov. (updated Apr 2021)

Go next

• You can cross over to Northern Cyprus and the northern side of Nicosia on foot or by car via the checkpoint near the Ledra Palace hotel, on the western side of the city wall. A more convenient checkpoint if you're on foot is the Ledra Street (Turkish: Lokmacı Caddesi) crossing which runs through the center of Nicosia.

• Public buses take you to other major destinations in the Republic of Cyprus; Agia Napa in the southeast, Larnaca in the south, as well as Pafos and Limassol in the southwest.