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Cuisine of Jerusalem

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Stews at Azura, an Iraqi/Kurdi Jewish restaurant at the Mahane Yehuda Market

The cuisine of Jerusalem reflects the long history of Jerusalem as a crossroads of cultures and religions. Millennia of trade, conquest, and migration have resulted in a unique fusion of culinary traditions, with significant influences from Jewish (predominantly Sephardic,[1] but also Kurdish, Ashkenazi, and other communities) and Levantine Arab cuisine.[2]

Dishes in Jerusalem feature fresh, seasonal ingredients typical of the Mediterranean climate, with a strong emphasis on vegetables, fruits, olive oil, and herbs. Street food is a prominent aspect of the culinary scene, thriving in bustling markets such as the Mahane Yehuda Market and the Arab souk of the Old City. Modern Jerusalem caters to a global palate, with a growing number of restaurants offering international fare alongside traditional dishes. This diverse culinary landscape ensures that both locals and visitors can enjoy a wide variety of food experiences.

Jerusalem is known for several iconic dishes, including the Jerusalem bagel, a long, oval-shaped bread typically topped with sesame seeds or za'atar; Jerusalem mixed grill, a dish made from chicken hearts, spleens, and liver mixed with bits of lamb and fried with onions and spices; and kubbeh, a type of dumpling made from bulgur or semolina filled with minced meat served in soup. Sephardic classics such as bourekas (savory pastries), biscochos (cookies), sofrito (a meat stew), orez shu'it (rice and beans), makaroni hamin (slow-cooked pasta), and pastelikos (meat-stuffed pastries) are also prevalent. Additionally, Ashkenazi Kugel Yerushalmi, a traditional noodle casserole, and Middle Eastern staples like hummus, falafel, shawarma, and knafeh, are integral to Jerusalem's culinary identity.

History

Mahane Yehuda Market in 1964

Jerusalem's cuisine has evolved significantly over the past two centuries. In the early 19th century, the city housed about 9,000 residents, with 2,000 Jews predominantly Ashkenazi and Sephardic. These communities maintained distinct culinary traditions brought from their countries of origin, blending with ingredients and cooking methods used by the Arab population. This period marked the beginning of a unique Jerusalemite cuisine that combined various Jewish traditions with the local Arab influences.[2]

As Jerusalem grew, so did its Jewish population, leading to further diversification of its culinary landscape. The arrival of Jews from North Africa, Yemen, and Europe in the late 19th and early 20th centuries introduced new ingredients and cooking techniques. Each group contributed its flavors and dishes, creating a rich world of Jerusalemite cuisine.[2]

In the post-World War II era and following the establishment of the State of Israel, Jerusalem continued to see a melding of culinary traditions. The influx of Jewish immigrants from around the world further enriched the city's food culture. Modern Jerusalemite cuisine is a dynamic blend of historical influences and contemporary innovations. Today, it reflects a fusion of ancient recipes and modern culinary practices, representing the city's diverse and vibrant Jewish community.[2]

Breads and pastries

Jerusalem bagel

The Jerusalem bagel is a traditional bread originating from Jerusalem, known for its unique long, oval shape.[3] It is softer and lighter than the classic round bagel. It is typically coated with toppings such as sesame seeds and served alongside za'atar, a blend of Levantine herbs,[4] and hard-boiled eggs.[3] A date-filled bread called maaruk, enriched with eggs and given a yellow hue from turmeric, can be found in the Old City.[5] The Yemenite Jewish community introduced jachnun to the city, and it became a staple in the local diet.[2]

The Jerusalem kugel, a spiced noodle casserole commonly served on Shabbat

Yerushalmi kugel, a specialty of Jerusalem, is a unique dish combining sweet and savory flavors. Made with caramel, black pepper, and egg noodles, it develops a crisp exterior and a chewy interior when baked. This kugel, often found in Orthodox Jewish communities, is characterized by its rich, peppery, and sweet taste. The dish can be served warm or cold, and reheated multiple times, making it a popular choice for Shabbat.[6]

Main dishes

Red kubbeh soup with pita, pickled cucumbers and hummus

Kubbeh, a dumpling soup of Iraqi Jewish origin, is an iconic dish of Jerusalem cuisine, often enjoyed as a pre-Shabbat meal during Friday lunch. Starting in the 1980s, this dish, which had been mostly eaten within the small Kurdish Jewish community, began appearing in simple eateries around Mahane Yehuda market, and gradually became popular among a wider audience.[1] The dish is served at restaurants such as Azura, Morduch, Ima and Rachmo.[1][7][8] Today, kubbeh is widely enjoyed in Jerusalem—whether at home, taken out, shared with friends and neighbors, or savored in restaurants as a beloved comfort food.[1]

Another popular dish in Jerusalem is sofrito, a stew of Sephardic Jewish origin. Beef sofrito, a mixture of beef, potatoes and spices, is served in places such as Azura[9] and Barood.[10] The latter, located in the historic Feingold courtyard and opened in 1995, is known for its Sephardi cuisine, also serving dishes such as pastelikos and leek fritters.[10]

Jerusalem mixed-grill, a speciality of Jerusalem including chicken thighs, hearts, and livers, caramelized onions and spices

Jerusalem mixed grill is a dish believed to have originated from the Mahane Yehuda Market. It consists of chicken thighs, hearts, and livers cooked with baharat, a Middle Eastern spice blend typically containing cinnamon, allspice, coriander, black pepper, cardamom, and cloves, along with caramelized onions. Traditionally prepared on a griddle, it can be made in a regular pan as well. The combination of spices and caramelized onions creates a rich and exciting flavor profile, that can also be served in a pita.[11]

In the Old City of Jerusalem, several popular hummus eateries draw crowds, including Abu Shukri, Lina, Abu Kamal, and Arafat.[4] Abu Shukri, known for its hand-prepared hummus, also offers dishes like msabbaha (whole chickpeas mixed with tahini) and ful (spiced fava beans). Due to limited seating, it's common to find locals lining up for takeaway breakfasts.[3] The Butchers' Market is home to Kebab Abu Shaheen, a kebab restaurant managed by descendants of a Turkish Muslim family believed to have founded the establishment during the Ottoman period.[4]

Hummus served in a restaurant at the Artists' Colony

Desserts

Knafeh served at Jafar Sweets, a shop in the Old City of Jerusalem

Knafeh, a Middle Eastern dessert made with kadayif and melted cheese and topped with pistachios and sugar syrup, is well-loved in Jerusalem. This dessert is typically found in Arab sweet shops, often served alongside other desserts, such as baklava. One notable establishment is Jafar Sweets, a well-known knafeh shop located in the Old City's Christian Quarter, not far from the Damascus Gate.[4][12][13] Also in the Old City, Al Aseel Sweets on Al-Wad Street offers knafeh on Fridays and Saturdays.[3] In 2017, the first kosher knafeh shop, Ir David, opened in the Mahane Yehuda Market, quickly gaining popularity and inspiring the establishment of additional kosher knafeh shops.[14]

Jerusalem features a variety of ice cream shops catering to different tastes. Mousseline is known for its silky French-style gelato and inventive flavors like basil and saffron, reflecting a local twist. Aldo, known for its Italian-style gelato made fresh daily, offers flavors such as pistachio and salted caramel, while providing a cozy atmosphere on Emek Refaim and other locations. Katzefet, a longtime favorite on Ben Yehuda Street, attracts visitors due to its creamy offerings and ample outdoor seating, featuring flavors like triple chocolate and the innovative chocolate beigele. Jetlek, influenced by European parlors, offers a more luxurious setting and extravagant ice cream creations like knafeh blends. Tziga specializes in gourmet ice pops, or Tzigonim, with flavors such as pistachio-berry and peanut-butter-and-jelly, drawing enthusiasts from around Israel. Golda, a nationwide chain, also has branches in the city.[15]

International cuisine

Alongside traditional Jerusalemite cuisine, an increasing number of restaurants in Jerusalem now offer international fare. Notable examples include the Austrian Hospice in the Old City, renowned for serving Austrian specialties like veal schnitzel and apple strudel. In the Jewish Quarter, a Korean restaurant offers Korean dishes such as bibimbap, gimbap, tteokbokki, japchae and kimchi.[4]

Events and festivals

In 1992, the Tower of David museum held an innovative food exhibition named Ta-Arucha, curated by renowned food writer Sherry Ansky.[16] Around 2021, the Tower of David initiated "Eating in Jerusalem," an interdisciplinary historical culinary project which includes a weekly newsletter, stories and recipes shared via WhatsApp, a blog featuring scholarly articles on local ingredients, and in-person food tours in the Old City and Mahane Yehuda Market.[16]

In the 2010s and 2020s, the Jerusalem Food Truck Festival became a prominent summer event. The festival, held during July and August nights, features food trucks where top chefs from esteemed city restaurants prepared dishes. Alongside culinary offerings, the festival also includes shows and light exhibitions.[17][18] Originally held at Ben Hinnom Valley Park, in 2024 the venue was relocated to Armon HaNatsiv park.[19]

References

  1. ^ a b c d Gur, Janna (2022-02-16). "A Kurdish Treat Becomes a Jerusalem Staple". Tablet Magazine.
  2. ^ a b c d e Choufan, Matan (2021-12-09). "מעורב ירושלמי: התפתחותו של המטבח הירושלמי היהודי". Asif (in Hebrew). Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  3. ^ a b c d Kassis, Reem (2023-01-17). "Hummus, Tahini and Other Tastes of Home in Jerusalem's Old City". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  4. ^ a b c d e Kaminer, Amir; Lev-Adler, Anat (2023-09-29). "Jerusalem: Explore the Old City's culinary wonders". Ynetnews. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  5. ^ "Asif Exhibition: A City, Wheat, Bread". Asif. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  6. ^ Clark, Melissa (2020-12-07). "A Kugel That's Savory and Sweet (and Crispy, Too)". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  7. ^ "Fire causes 'significant damage' to renowned Ima restaurant in downtown Jerusalem". Times of Israel. 2024-06-07.
  8. ^ Ferst, Devra (2017-08-10). "An Iraqi-Kurdish-Israeli Dumpling Soup Makes Its Way To America". npr.
  9. ^ Silver, Daniel (2019-06-10). "14 out-of-this-world eateries in Jerusalem's famous market". ISRAEL21c. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  10. ^ a b "Barood". Asif. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  11. ^ Sifton, Sam (2019-03-20). "A Taste of Jerusalem in a Chicken Dinner". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  12. ^ Nissenbaum, Dion; Abdul Karim, Fatima (2023-06-04). "A Trendy Dessert Stirs Up a Sticky Debate". The Wall Street Journal.
  13. ^ "Jaffar and Sons Pastry Cafe in Jerusalem - Restaurant | Frommer's". www.frommers.com. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  14. ^ Levi, Sarah (2022-11-28). "Knafeh becomes an institution at Jerusalem's shuk". ISRAEL21c. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  15. ^ "The inside scoop: What are Jerusalem's best ice cream parlors?". The Jerusalem Post | JPost.com. 2023-07-01. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  16. ^ a b Tsapovsky, Flora (2021-08-25). "Expanding the Israeli Menu". Tablet Magazine.
  17. ^ "Tour Israel: What are the best Jerusalem foodie destinations?". The Jerusalem Post | JPost.com. 2023-07-22. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  18. ^ "Jerusalem's food truck fest: A gastronomic delight on wheels". The Jerusalem Post | JPost.com. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  19. ^ Gamish, Rafi (2024-07-02). "מיקום חדש, הופעות חיות, מופע לייזר ונוף מרהיב – פסטיבל 'אוטו אוכל' נוחת בטיילת | כל העיר". כל העיר ירושלים (in Hebrew). Retrieved 2024-07-08.
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