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{{Infobox person |
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{{short description|French mountaineer and politician}} |
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| image = Rock climbing practice wall.jpg |
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| caption = Maurice Herzog Climbing Wall at [[International Mountain Museum]], [[Pokhara]], [[Nepal]] |
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| office = [[Minister of Youth Affairs and Sports (France)|Secretary of State for Youth Affairs and Sports]] |
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| term_start = 1958 |
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| term_end = 1966 |
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| president = [[Charles de Gaulle]] |
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| primeminister = [[Georges Pompidou]] |
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| predecessor = [[René Billères]] |
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| successor = [[François Missoffe]] |
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| office2 = [[Mayor (France)|Mayor]] of [[Chamonix]] |
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| term_start2 = 1968 |
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| term_end2 = 1977 |
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| birth_place = [[Lyon]], [[French Third Republic|France]] |
| birth_place = [[Lyon]], [[French Third Republic|France]] |
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| death_date = {{death date and age |
| death_date = {{death date and age|2012|12|13|1919|01|15|df=yes}} |
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| death_place = [[Neuilly-sur-Seine]], France |
| death_place = [[Neuilly-sur-Seine]], [[Île-de-France]], France |
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| nationality = [[France|French]] |
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| party = [[Union for the New Republic|UNR]] |
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| occupation = [[Mountaineering|Mountaineer]] |
| occupation = [[Mountaineering|Mountaineer]] |
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| spouse = Marie-Pierre de Cossé-Brissac (1964–1976)<br />Élisabeth Gamper (1976) |
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| networth = |
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| children = Laurent, Félicité, Mathias, Sébastien |
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| spouse = Marie-Pierre de Cossé-Brissac (1964-1976)<br />Elisabeth Gamper (1976)<ref name=Douglas>{{cite news|last=Douglas|first=Ed|title=Maurice Herzog obituary|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2012/dec/14/maurice-herzog%20Maurice%20Herzog|accessdate=15 December 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=14 December 2012}}</ref> |
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| website = |
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| footnotes = |
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| children = Laurent, Felicité, Mathias, Sébastien<ref name=NYTobit>{{cite news|last=Weber|first=Bruce|title=Maurice Herzog, 93, Dies; Led Historic Himalaya Climb|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/15/world/europe/maurice-herzog-93-dies-led-historic-himalaya-climb.html?hpw|accessdate=15 December 2012|newspaper=The New York Times|date=14 December 2012}}</ref> |
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}} |
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⚫ | '''Maurice Herzog''' ( |
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⚫ | '''Maurice André Raymond Herzog''' ({{IPA|fr|mɔʁis ɑ̃dʁe ʁemɔ̃ ɛʁzɔɡ}}; 15 January 1919{{spnd}}13 December 2012)<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.ledauphine.com/france-monde/2012/12/14/mort-dfe-maurice-herzog |title=Maurice Herzog, la mort d'un héros d'après-guerre aux versants contrastés |publisher=Le Dauphiné Libéré |date=13 December 2012 |access-date=14 December 2012}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=2012-12-14 |title=L'alpiniste et ancien ministre Maurice Herzog est mort |language=fr |work=Le Monde.fr |url=https://www.lemonde.fr/disparitions/article/2012/12/14/l-alpiniste-et-ancien-ministre-maurice-herzog-est-mort_1806643_3382.html |access-date=2022-10-06}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=2012-09-13 |title=Maurice Herzog : la légende et ses failles |language=fr |work=Le Monde.fr |url=https://www.lemonde.fr/sport/article/2012/09/13/herzog-devisse_1760048_3242.html |access-date=2022-10-06}}</ref> was a French [[Mountaineering|mountaineer]] and administrator who was born in [[Lyon, France]]. He led the [[1950 French Annapurna expedition]] that first climbed [[Eight-thousander|a peak over 8000m]], [[Annapurna]], in 1950, and reached the summit with [[Louis Lachenal]]. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition, ''[[Annapurna (book)|Annapurna]]''. |
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⚫ | On 3 June 1950, Herzog and [[Louis Lachenal]] became the first climbers in modern history to climb [[Eight-thousander|a peak over 8000m]] when they summited the [[Himalayas|Himalayan]] mountain [[Annapurna]] I, the 10th-highest mountain in the world.<ref name=":0" /> |
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{{main|1950 French Annapurna expedition}} |
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⚫ | On 3 June 1950, Herzog and [[Louis Lachenal]] became the first climbers in modern history to climb [[Eight-thousander|a peak over 8000m]] when, on the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, they summited the [[Himalayas|Himalayan]] mountain [[Annapurna]] I, the 10th-highest mountain in the world.<ref name=":0" /> The ascent was all the more remarkable because the peak was explored, reconnoitered and climbed all within one season; and was climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen. It is also the only 8000 meter summit that was reached at the first attempt. Herzog was awarded the 1950 [[Grande Médaille d'Or des Explorations|Gold Medal]] of the [[Société de Géographie]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.socgeo.org/grande-medaille-dor-des-explorations-et-voyages-de-decouverte/ |title=GRANDE MÉDAILLE D'OR DES EXPLORATIONS ET VOYAGES DE DÉCOUVERTE (in French) |publisher=Société de géographie |access-date=1 December 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141206004240/http://www.socgeo.org/grande-medaille-dor-des-explorations-et-voyages-de-decouverte/ |archive-date=6 December 2014 }}</ref> |
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The event caused a huge sensation that was only matched when Everest was summited in 1953 by [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[Tenzing Norgay]]. |
The event caused a huge sensation that was only matched when Everest was summited in 1953 by [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[Tenzing Norgay]]. |
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The two-week retreat from the peak proved very challenging. Both climbers had opted for light boots for the summit dash. This, combined with Herzog losing his gloves near the summit and a night spent bivouacked in a crevasse on the descent with one sleeping bag for four climbers (Lachenal, [[Gaston |
The two-week retreat from the peak proved very challenging. Both climbers had opted for light boots for the summit dash. This, combined with Herzog losing his gloves near the summit and a night spent bivouacked in a crevasse on the descent with one sleeping bag for four climbers (Lachenal, [[Gaston Rébuffat]], [[Lionel Terray]], and Herzog) resulted in severe [[frostbite]], with consequent [[gangrene]] requiring the [[expedition medicine|expedition doctor]] to perform emergency [[amputation]]s in the field.<ref>{{cite book | last = Herzog | first = Maurice | title = Annapurna | publisher = The Lyons Press | year = 1997 | location = New York, New York, United States | url = https://archive.org/details/annapurnafirstco0000herz | isbn = 1-55821-549-2 | url-access = registration }}</ref> Both summit climbers lost all of their toes and Herzog most of his fingers. |
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| location = New York, New York, United States | pages = | url = | doi = |
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| isbn = 1-55821-549-2 }}</ref> Both summit climbers lost all of their toes and Herzog most of his fingers. |
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Annapurna was not climbed again until 1970, when the French north face route was climbed by a British Army expedition, simultaneously with an ascent of the south face by an expedition led by British climber [[Chris Bonington]]. |
Annapurna I was not climbed again until 1970, when the French north face route was climbed by a British Army expedition led by Colonel [[Henry Day (British Army officer)|Henry Day]], simultaneously with an ascent of the south face by an expedition led by British climber [[Chris Bonington]]. The mountain's fourth ascent was not until 1977.<ref>{{cite book | last = Baume | first = Louis C. | title = Sivalaya | publisher = The Mountaineers | year = 1979 | location = Seattle, Washington, United States | isbn = 0-916890-71-6 }}</ref> |
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==Book== |
==Book== |
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Herzog's account of the expedition was published first in 1951 in French,<ref>{{cite book | last = Roberts | first = David | title = True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna |
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| publisher = Touchstone/Simon & Schuster | year = 2002 | location = New York, New York | pages = 226 |
| publisher = Touchstone/Simon & Schuster | year = 2002 | location = New York, New York | pages = 226 | isbn = 0-7432-0327-5 }}</ref> then in English in 1952 under the title ''[[Annapurna (book)|Annapurna]]''. The book has sold over 11 million copies as of 2000, more than any other mountaineering title.<ref name=NYT>{{Cite news | last = Barcott | first = Bruce | title = No Room at the Top | newspaper = The New York Times | date = 4 June 2000 | url = https://www.nytimes.com/books/00/06/04/reviews/000604.04barc.html | access-date = 6 January 2010 }}</ref> Ending with the stirring line "there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men" (in the context of the book, an exhortation to answer the challenges that life offers), the book gave an account of the expedition that established Herzog's climbing reputation and inspired a generation of mountaineers. |
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== Controversy over his account of the ascent == |
== Controversy over his account of the ascent == |
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Some |
Some aspects of Herzog's account of the summit day have been called into question with the publication of other members’ accounts of the expedition, most significantly by a biography of [[Gaston Rébuffat]] and the posthumous publication, in 1996, of Lachenal's contemporaneous journals. The 2000 book ''True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna'' by [[David Roberts (climber)|David Roberts]] gives one view of the controversy.<ref name=NYT/> |
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== Other achievements == |
== Other achievements == |
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Herzog went on to become the French [[Minister of Youth Affairs and Sports (France)|Minister of Youth and Sport]] from 1958 to 1963, and mayor of the alpine town of [[Chamonix-Mont-Blanc]]. He was a member of the [[International Olympic Committee]] for 25 years from 1970, and has an honorary member after 1995. He was a Grand Officer of the [[Legion d'Honneur]] and holder of the [[Croix de guerre 1939–1945|Croix de Guerre]] for military service |
Herzog went on to become the French [[Minister of Youth Affairs and Sports (France)|Minister of Youth and Sport]] from 1958 to 1963, and mayor of the alpine town of [[Chamonix-Mont-Blanc]]. He was a member of the [[International Olympic Committee]] for 25 years from 1970, and has an honorary member after 1995. He was a Grand Officer of the [[Legion d'Honneur]] and holder of the [[Croix de guerre 1939–1945|Croix de Guerre]] for military service 1939–45.<ref>{{cite book | last = Latorre Torres | first = Ferrán | title = Conversaciones con Maurice Herzog | publisher = Ediciones Desnivel | year = 2002 | location = Paris, France | isbn = 978-84-95760-36-4 }}</ref> |
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Herzog was a 1944 graduate of the French business school [[HEC Paris]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite web | title = Maurice Herzog (HEC 1944M) | publisher = HEC France | url = http://www.hec.fr/Actualites/Les-rubriques-de-la-page-d-accueil/Un-diplome-a-la-Une/Maurice-Herzog-HEC-1944M |
Herzog was a 1944 graduate of the French business school [[HEC Paris]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite web | title = Maurice Herzog (HEC 1944M) | publisher = HEC France | url = http://www.hec.fr/Actualites/Les-rubriques-de-la-page-d-accueil/Un-diplome-a-la-Une/Maurice-Herzog-HEC-1944M | access-date = 7 January 2010 | url-status = dead | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100102043427/http://www.hec.fr/Actualites/Les-rubriques-de-la-page-d-accueil/Un-diplome-a-la-Une/Maurice-Herzog-HEC-1944M | archive-date = 2 January 2010 }}</ref> |
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==Publications== |
==Publications== |
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| title = Annapurna, First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak |
| title = Annapurna, First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak |
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| publisher = E. P. Dutton & Co | year = 1952 | location = New York, New York |
| publisher = E. P. Dutton & Co | year = 1952 | location = New York, New York |
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| url =https://archive.org/details/annapurnafirstco00herz_0| url-access = registration |
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| pages = | url = | doi = |
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| id = Library of Congress Catalog Card No: 52-12154 }} (first American printing) |
| id = Library of Congress Catalog Card No: 52-12154 }} (first American printing) |
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*{{cite book | last = Herzog | first = Maurice | title = Annapurna | publisher = The Lyons Press | year = 1997 |
*{{cite book | last = Herzog | first = Maurice | title = Annapurna | publisher = The Lyons Press | year = 1997 | location = New York, New York | url = https://archive.org/details/annapurnafirstco0000herz | isbn = 1-55821-549-2 | url-access = registration }} (current American edition) |
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| location = New York, New York | pages = | url = | doi = |
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| isbn = 1-55821-549-2 }} (current American edition) |
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==Related books== |
==Related books== |
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*{{cite book | last = Terray | first = Lionel | others=Geoffrey Sutton (trans.) |
*{{cite book | last = Terray | first = Lionel | others=Geoffrey Sutton (trans.) |
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| title = Conquistadors of the Useless | publisher = Baton Wicks Publications |
| title = Conquistadors of the Useless | publisher = Baton Wicks Publications |
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| year = 2000 | location = London, UK |
| year = 2000 | location = London, UK |
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| isbn = 1-898573-38-7 }} (current English edition - original French edition 1961) |
| isbn = 1-898573-38-7 }} (current English edition - original French edition 1961) |
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*{{cite book | last = Hattingh | first = Garth | title = Top Climbs of the World | publisher = New Holland Publishers, Ltd |
*{{cite book | last = Hattingh | first = Garth | title = Top Climbs of the World | publisher = New Holland Publishers, Ltd |
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| year = 1999 | location = London, UK |
| year = 1999 | location = London, UK |
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| isbn = 1-85974-085-5 }} |
| isbn = 1-85974-085-5 }} |
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*{{cite book | last = Roberts | first = David | title = True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna |
*{{cite book | last = Roberts | first = David | title = True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna |
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| publisher = Touchstone/Simon & Schuster | year = 2002 | location = New York, NY, USA |
| publisher = Touchstone/Simon & Schuster | year = 2002 | location = New York, NY, USA |
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| isbn = 0-7432-0327-5 }} |
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== See also == |
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* [[Francis de Noyelle]] |
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== References == |
== References == |
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{{reflist |
{{reflist}} |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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[[Category:Union for the New Republic politicians]] |
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[[Category:Government ministers of France]] |
[[Category:Government ministers of France]] |
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[[Category:Deputies of the 3rd National Assembly of the French Fifth Republic]] |
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[[Category:Members of Parliament for Haute-Savoie]] |
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[[Category:Mayors of places in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes]] |
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[[Category:French mountain climbers]] |
[[Category:French mountain climbers]] |
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[[Category:International Olympic Committee members]] |
[[Category:French International Olympic Committee members]] |
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[[Category:French Resistance members]] |
[[Category:French Resistance members]] |
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[[Category:French military personnel of World War II]] |
[[Category:French military personnel of World War II]] |
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[[Category:Grand Officers of the Legion of Honour]] |
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[[Category:Knights Commander of the Order of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany]] |
Latest revision as of 10:40, 21 August 2024
Maurice Herzog | |
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Secretary of State for Youth Affairs and Sports | |
In office 1958–1966 | |
President | Charles de Gaulle |
Prime Minister | Georges Pompidou |
Preceded by | René Billères |
Succeeded by | François Missoffe |
Mayor of Chamonix | |
In office 1968–1977 | |
Personal details | |
Born | Lyon, France | 15 January 1919
Died | 13 December 2012 Neuilly-sur-Seine, Île-de-France, France | (aged 93)
Political party | UNR |
Spouse(s) | Marie-Pierre de Cossé-Brissac (1964–1976) Élisabeth Gamper (1976) |
Children | Laurent, Félicité, Mathias, Sébastien |
Alma mater | HEC Paris |
Occupation | Mountaineer |
Maurice André Raymond Herzog (French pronunciation: [mɔʁis ɑ̃dʁe ʁemɔ̃ ɛʁzɔɡ]; 15 January 1919 – 13 December 2012)[1][2][3] was a French mountaineer and administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the 1950 French Annapurna expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m, Annapurna, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition, Annapurna.
Ascent of Annapurna I: a historic exploit
[edit]On 3 June 1950, Herzog and Louis Lachenal became the first climbers in modern history to climb a peak over 8000m when, on the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, they summited the Himalayan mountain Annapurna I, the 10th-highest mountain in the world.[4] The ascent was all the more remarkable because the peak was explored, reconnoitered and climbed all within one season; and was climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen. It is also the only 8000 meter summit that was reached at the first attempt. Herzog was awarded the 1950 Gold Medal of the Société de Géographie.[5]
The event caused a huge sensation that was only matched when Everest was summited in 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
The two-week retreat from the peak proved very challenging. Both climbers had opted for light boots for the summit dash. This, combined with Herzog losing his gloves near the summit and a night spent bivouacked in a crevasse on the descent with one sleeping bag for four climbers (Lachenal, Gaston Rébuffat, Lionel Terray, and Herzog) resulted in severe frostbite, with consequent gangrene requiring the expedition doctor to perform emergency amputations in the field.[6] Both summit climbers lost all of their toes and Herzog most of his fingers.
Annapurna I was not climbed again until 1970, when the French north face route was climbed by a British Army expedition led by Colonel Henry Day, simultaneously with an ascent of the south face by an expedition led by British climber Chris Bonington. The mountain's fourth ascent was not until 1977.[7]
Book
[edit]Herzog's account of the expedition was published first in 1951 in French,[8] then in English in 1952 under the title Annapurna. The book has sold over 11 million copies as of 2000, more than any other mountaineering title.[9] Ending with the stirring line "there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men" (in the context of the book, an exhortation to answer the challenges that life offers), the book gave an account of the expedition that established Herzog's climbing reputation and inspired a generation of mountaineers.
Controversy over his account of the ascent
[edit]Some aspects of Herzog's account of the summit day have been called into question with the publication of other members’ accounts of the expedition, most significantly by a biography of Gaston Rébuffat and the posthumous publication, in 1996, of Lachenal's contemporaneous journals. The 2000 book True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna by David Roberts gives one view of the controversy.[9]
Other achievements
[edit]Herzog went on to become the French Minister of Youth and Sport from 1958 to 1963, and mayor of the alpine town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. He was a member of the International Olympic Committee for 25 years from 1970, and has an honorary member after 1995. He was a Grand Officer of the Legion d'Honneur and holder of the Croix de Guerre for military service 1939–45.[10]
Herzog was a 1944 graduate of the French business school HEC Paris.[4]
Publications
[edit]- Herzog, Maurice (1952). Annapurna, First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak. Translated by Nea Morin; Janet Smith. New York, New York: E. P. Dutton & Co. Library of Congress Catalog Card No: 52-12154. (first American printing)
- Herzog, Maurice (1997). Annapurna. New York, New York: The Lyons Press. ISBN 1-55821-549-2. (current American edition)
Related books
[edit]- Terray, Lionel (2000). Conquistadors of the Useless. Geoffrey Sutton (trans.). London, UK: Baton Wicks Publications. ISBN 1-898573-38-7. (current English edition - original French edition 1961)
- Hattingh, Garth (1999). Top Climbs of the World. London, UK: New Holland Publishers, Ltd. ISBN 1-85974-085-5.
- Roberts, David (2002). True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna. New York, NY, USA: Touchstone/Simon & Schuster. ISBN 0-7432-0327-5.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "Maurice Herzog, la mort d'un héros d'après-guerre aux versants contrastés". Le Dauphiné Libéré. 13 December 2012. Retrieved 14 December 2012.
- ^ "L'alpiniste et ancien ministre Maurice Herzog est mort". Le Monde.fr (in French). 14 December 2012. Retrieved 6 October 2022.
- ^ "Maurice Herzog : la légende et ses failles". Le Monde.fr (in French). 13 September 2012. Retrieved 6 October 2022.
- ^ a b "Maurice Herzog (HEC 1944M)". HEC France. Archived from the original on 2 January 2010. Retrieved 7 January 2010.
- ^ "GRANDE MÉDAILLE D'OR DES EXPLORATIONS ET VOYAGES DE DÉCOUVERTE (in French)". Société de géographie. Archived from the original on 6 December 2014. Retrieved 1 December 2014.
- ^ Herzog, Maurice (1997). Annapurna. New York, New York, United States: The Lyons Press. ISBN 1-55821-549-2.
- ^ Baume, Louis C. (1979). Sivalaya. Seattle, Washington, United States: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-916890-71-6.
- ^ Roberts, David (2002). True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna. New York, New York: Touchstone/Simon & Schuster. p. 226. ISBN 0-7432-0327-5.
- ^ a b Barcott, Bruce (4 June 2000). "No Room at the Top". The New York Times. Retrieved 6 January 2010.
- ^ Latorre Torres, Ferrán (2002). Conversaciones con Maurice Herzog. Paris, France: Ediciones Desnivel. ISBN 978-84-95760-36-4.
External links
[edit]- 1919 births
- 2012 deaths
- Sportspeople from Lyon
- Union for the New Republic politicians
- Union of Democrats for the Republic politicians
- Government ministers of France
- Deputies of the 2nd National Assembly of the French Fifth Republic
- Deputies of the 3rd National Assembly of the French Fifth Republic
- Deputies of the 4th National Assembly of the French Fifth Republic
- Deputies of the 5th National Assembly of the French Fifth Republic
- Members of Parliament for Rhône
- Members of Parliament for Haute-Savoie
- Mayors of places in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
- French mountain climbers
- French International Olympic Committee members
- HEC Paris alumni
- French Resistance members
- French military personnel of World War II
- Grand Officers of the Legion of Honour
- Recipients of the Croix de Guerre 1939–1945 (France)
- Knights Commander of the Order of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany