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ÈĦĥŊḥŅŔíÑRŇıÎÎņņņņñññŘÐŖ
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}}
{{EngvarB|date=January 2020}}
{{short description|British fashion designer}}
{{Infobox fashion designer
|honorific_prefix = [[Dame]]
|name = Mary Quant<br><small>[[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]]</small>
|image = Mary Quant (1966).jpg
|caption = Mary Quant (1966)
|birth_name = Barbara Mary Quant
|birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=y|1930|2|11}}
|birth_place = [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, England
|death_date =
|death_place =
|nationality = British
|education = [[Goldsmith's College]]
|label_name = Mary Quant
|other_names = Barbara Mary Plunket Greene<ref>[http://thesteepletimes.com/fashion/mary-quant-obe-fscd Quant profile], thesteepletimes.com. Retrieved 7 May 2015.</ref>
|spouse = Alexander Plunket Greene (1957–1990; his death)
|children = 1 son
|awards = [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]]
}}

'''Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene''', [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] (born 11 February 1930)<ref name="birth">{{Cite web|url=https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=oGgoXw%2BvbvrRRYEJoMzGdA&scan=1|title=Entry Information: Births Mar 1930 Quant Barbara M|author=General Register Office|accessdate=20 February 2020|work=FreeBMD|publisher=ONS}}</ref> <ref group=notes>The Mary Quant exhibition at the [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] in 2019-20 stated her year of birth as 1930, and that she became a student at [[Goldsmith’s College]] around 1950. </ref> is an English fashion designer and fashion icon, who is of Welsh heritage.<ref name="britlist">{{cite web|title=The Brit List: Five Great British Fashion Designers|author=Ho, Karen|url=http://www.bbcamerica.com/anglophenia/2012/07/the-brit-list-five-great-british-fashion-designers|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[BBC America]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=3 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=New Year Honours: Designer Mary Quant among Welsh recipients|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-30624803|accessdate=9 January 2015|publisher=[[BBC News]]|date=30 December 2014}}</ref>

She became an instrumental figure in the 1960s London-based [[Mod (subculture)|Mod]] and youth fashion movements.<ref name=britlist/><ref name=korea>{{cite news|title=Mary Quant, British Fashion Icon|author=Do Je-Hae|url=http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2012/08/142_117119.html|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[The Korea Times]]|date=10 October 2012}}</ref> She was one of the designers who took credit for the [[miniskirt]] and [[hotpants]], and by promoting these and other fun fashions she encouraged young people to dress to please themselves and to treat fashion as a game.<ref>{{cite book|last=McKinnell|first=Joyce|title=Beauty|year=1964|publisher=Harper Collins|isbn=9780007295586|page=93|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=eaEFd2S2kdoC&pg=PA93&lpg=PA93}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=1966 trouser suit by Mary Quant.|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O133302/trouser-suit-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> [[Ernestine Carter]], an authoritative and influential fashion journalist of the 1950s and 1960s,<ref name="odnb">Barbara Burman [http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/48273 accessed 12 July 2012 "Carter, Ernestine Marie (1906–1983)" profile, ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', Oxford University Press, 2004], oxforddnb.com. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref> wrote: "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there are three: [[Coco Chanel|Chanel]], [[Christian Dior|Dior]], and Mary Quant."<ref>{{cite book|last=Connikie|first=Yvonne|title=Fashion of a Decade|year=2006|publisher=Infobase Publishing|isbn=9781438118925|pages=17|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=9Q7PyCAxcCQC&pg=PA17}}</ref>

==Early life==

Quant was born on 11 February 1930<ref name=birth/> in [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, the daughter of Welsh teachers.<ref>General Register Office of England and Wales, Births, March quarter 1930, Woolwich, Vol 1d, p. 1570.</ref> Her parents, Jack and Mildred Quant were both from mining families; however, they had been awarded scholarships to grammar school and had both attained first-class degrees at [[Cardiff University]] before they moved to London to work as school teachers.<ref name="Designers">{{cite book|author1=Polan, Brenda|author2=Tredre, Roger|title=The Great Fashion Designer|url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola|url-access=registration|pages=[https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/103 103]–04|publisher=Berg|location=New York|year=2009|isbn=978-1-84788-228-8}}</ref>

She went to [[Blackheath High School]], then studied [[illustration]] at [[Goldsmiths, University of London|Goldsmiths College]]. After gaining a Diploma in Art Education from Goldsmiths, Quant began an apprenticeship at Erik, a high-end [[Mayfair]] [[Hatmaking|milliner]] on [[Brook Street]] next door to [[Claridge's]] hotel.<ref name="Designers"/><ref name="V&A">{{cite web|title=Mary Quant|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|accessdate=24 February 2011|work=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]] website|publisher=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]]|year=2011|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090914124204/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|archivedate=14 September 2009}}</ref><ref name=lisa>{{cite news|last=Armstrong|first=Lisa|title=Mary Quant: 'You have to work at staying slim – but it's worth it'|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9087300/Mary-Quant-You-have-to-work-at-staying-slim-but-its-worth-it.html|accessdate=17 October 2012|newspaper=The Telegraph|date=17 February 2012}}</ref>

==Marriage==
She met her future husband and business partner, Alexander Plunket Greene, in 1953.<ref name=lisa/> They were married from 1957 until his death in 1990, and had a son, Orlando (b. 1970).

==Fashion career==
[[File:Mary Quant 'Rex Harrison' cardigan dress chosen as Dress of the Year, 1963.jpg|thumb|right|125px|Mary Quant dress chosen as the [[Dress of the Year]], 19ch were featured in ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' and purchased by an American manufacturer to copy.<ref name=berg/> Following this, Quant decided to design and make more of the clothes she stocked, instead of buying in her stock.<ref name=berg/> Initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of sewing machine operators; by 1966 she was working with a total of 18 manufacturers.

For a while in the late 1950s and early 1960s, Quant was one of only two London-based high-end designers consistently offering youthful clothes for young people.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Denza|first1=Vanessa|title=Interview with Vanessa Denza MBE|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/vanessa-denza-mbe/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=2 June 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Waddell|first1=Gavin|title=How fashion works: couture, ready-to-wear, and mass production|date=2004|publisher=Blackwell Science|location=Oxford, UK|isbn=9781118814994|page=130|edition=Online-Ausg.|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=GX-uAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA130}}</ref> The other was [[Kiki Byrne]], who opened her boutique on the [[King's Road]] in direct competition with Quant.<ref name=obyrne>{{cite book|last1=O'Byrne|first1=Robert|title=Style city: how London became a fashion capital|date=2009|publisher=Frances Lincoln|location=London|isbn=9780711228955|page=14}}</ref>

===Quant and the miniskirt===
[[File:1960s Mary Quant minidress, green, purple and white jersey.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Jersey minidress by Mary Quant, late 1960s]]
The miniskirt, described as one of the defining [[1960s in fashion|fashions of the 1960s]],<ref>{{cite book |first1=Ros |last1=Horton |first2=Sally |last2=Simmons |date=2007 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7LYLOj2APSsC&pg=PA170 |title=Women Who Changed the World |page=170}}</ref> is one of the garments most widely associated with Quant. While she is often cited as the inventor of the style, this claim has been challenged by others. [[Marit Allen]], a contemporary fashion journalist and editor of the influential "Young Ideas" pages for UK [[Vogue (British magazine)|''Vogue'']], firmly stated that another British fashion designer, [[John Bates (designer)|John Bates]], rather than Quant or [[André Courrèges]], was the original creator of the miniskirt.<ref>{{cite web|title=Garments worn by Marit Allen|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/g/garments-worn-by-marit-allen/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> Others credit Courrèges with the invention of the style.<ref name=jess>{{cite news|last=Cartner-Morley|first=Jess|title=Chelsea girl who instigated a new era|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> However, skirts had been getting shorter since the 1950s—a development Quant considered practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus.<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |authorlink=Barry Miles |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=194 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref>

Quant later said: "It was the girls on the [[King's Road]] [during the "[[Swinging London]]" scene] who invented the mini. I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them very short and the customers would say, 'Shorter, shorter.'"<ref name="Designers"/> She gave the miniskirt its name, after her favourite make of car, the [[Mini]],<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=203 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> and said of its wearers: "they are curiously feminine, but their femininity lies in their attitude rather than in their appearance ... She enjoys being noticed, but wittily. She is lively—positive—opinionated."<ref name="seebohm19710719">{{cite news|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=A-MCAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA34&pg=PA34#v=onepage&q&f=true|title=English Girls in New York: They Don't Go Home Again|work=New York|date=19 July 1971|accessdate=6 January 2015|author=Seebohm, Caroline|page=34}}</ref>

In addition to the miniskirt, Quant is often credited with inventing the coloured and patterned [[tights]] that tended to accompany the garment, although their creation is also attributed to the Spanish couturier [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]], who offered [[harlequin]]-patterned tights in 1962,<ref name=jess/><ref>{{cite book|last=Carter|first=Ernestine|title=The changing world of fashion: 1900 to the present|year=1977|publisher=Weidenfeld and Nicolson|location=London|isbn=9780297773498|pages=213|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=PNn-T8q3GMXV0QXltIC7Bw&id=AkdEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Balenciaga+stockings+patterned&q=Balenciaga+harlequin#search_anchor}}</ref> or to John Bates.<ref name="bates">Lester, Richard, ''John Bates: Fashion Designer'', London, 2008.<!-- ISBN needed --></ref>

=Later career=
In the late 1960s, Quant popularised [[hot pants]] and became a British fashion icon.<ref>{{cite web|title=Mary Quant profile|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Quant was responsible for hot pants, the Lolita look, the slip dress, PVC raincoats, smoky eyes and sleek bob haircuts, but it was make-up that eventually made her company the most money.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[BBC]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=November 2008}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|author=Hillary Alexander|title=Fashion designer Mary Quant to have design included on Royal Mail stamps|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Apart from the mini, Quant is credited with popularising white "go-go" boots, patterned tights, {{Sic|hide=y|brightly|-}}coloured "Paintbox" make-up, the micro-mini skirt, plastic raincoats, the "wet look", and hot-pants, which she designed in 1966, the year she received an OBE from the Queen for her services to the fashion industry.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|location=London, UK|date=9 January 2009}}</ref> Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up rather than just her clothing lines, including the [[duvet]], which she claims to have invented.<ref name=lisa/>

In 1988, Quant designed the interior of the [[Mini]] (1000) Designer (originally dubbed the Mini Quant, the name was changed when popularity charts were set against having Quant's name on the car). It featured black-and-white striped seats with red trimming. The seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quant's signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering-wheel had Quant's signature daisy, and the bonnet badge had "Mary Quant" written over the signature name. The headlight housings, wheel arches, door handles and bumpers were all "nimbus grey", rather than the more common chrome or black finishes. Two thousand were released in the UK on 15 June 1988, and a number were also released on to foreign markets; however, the numbers for these are hard to come by. The special edition Mini came in two body colours, jet black and diamond white.

In 2000, she resigned as director of Mary Quant Ltd, her cosmetics company, after a Japanese buy-out.<ref name=gillan>{{cite news|last=Gillan|first=Audrey|title=Mary Quant quits fashion empire|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> There are more than 200 Mary Quant Colour shops in Japan.<ref name="gillan" />

===Recognition===
In 1963 Quant was the first winner of the [[Dress of the Year]] award. In 1966 she was appointed [[Officer of the Order of the British Empire]] (OBE) for her outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. She arrived at [[Buckingham Palace]] to accept the award in a cream wool jersey minidress with blue facings.<ref>{{cite web|title=O.B.E. Dress by Mary Quant|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138961/obe-dress-dress-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref>
In 1990 she won the Hall of Fame Award of the [[British Fashion Council]].
She was appointed [[Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] (DBE) in the [[2015 New Year Honours]] for services to British fashion.<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=61092 |supp=y|page=N8|date=31 December 2014}}</ref><ref>[https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf 2015 New Year Honours List] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150102104907/https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf |date=2 January 2015 }}, Government of the United Kingdom. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref>

Quant received an Honorary Doctorate from [[Heriot-Watt University]] in 2006.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |title=Annual Review 2006 : People, Honours and Awards |website=www1.hw.ac.uk |access-date=30 March 2016 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20160413051238/http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |archivedate=13 April 2016 }}</ref> In 2012, she was among the [[Culture of the United Kingdom|British cultural icons]] selected by artist Sir [[Peter Blake (artist)|Peter Blake]] to appear in a new version of his most famous artwork – the Beatles' ''[[Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band]]'' album cover – to celebrate the British cultural figures of his life.<ref>{{cite news|title=New faces on Sgt Pepper album cover for artist Peter Blake's 80th birthday|url= https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/apr/02/peter-blake-sgt-pepper-cover-revisited|newspaper=The Guardian|year= 2016}}</ref>

Quant is a [[Fellow#Learned or professional societies, or speciality training|Fellow]] of the [[Chartered Society of Designers]], and winner of the Minerva Medal, the Society's highest award.<ref>{{cite news|title=These were the days that shook the world|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2008/jan/20/review.features7|newspaper=The Guardian|date=5 October 2016}}</ref>

==Books by Quant==
*1966: ''Quant by Quant''&nbsp;— her first autobiography
*1984: ''Colour by Quant''
*1986: ''Quant on Make-up''
*1999: ''Classic Make-up and Beauty Book''
*2011: ''Mary Quant: Autobiography''&nbsp;— her second autobiography<ref>{{Cite book|author=Quant, Mary |year=2012 |title=Mary Quant: Autobiography |location=London |publisher=Headline |isbn=978-0-7553-6017-8|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KxyUSQAACAAJ}}</ref>

== In popular culture ==
*In the 1966 [[Donovan]] song "Sunny South Kensington", Quant and [[Jean-Paul Belmondo]]'s drug use/abuse is immortalised in the lyric: "Jean-Paul Belmondo and-a Mary Quant got [[substance intoxication|stoned]], to say the least".<ref>"Sunny South Kensington", ''The Little Black Songbook Of Donovan'', Wise Publications, 2013, {{ISBN|978-1-78305-101-4}}, p. 136.</ref><ref>EPIC 5-10098, "Mellow Yellow/Sunny South Kensington" 45 rpm single, 1966.</ref>
*Quant is referenced in the musical number "''This Is What We Want''" in the 2014 stage musical [[Made in Dagenham (musical)|Made in Dagenham]], based on the 2010 [[Made in Dagenham|film of the same name]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.musixmatch.com/lyrics/Sophie-Isaacs-The-Made-in-Dagenham-Female-Cast/This-Is-What-We-Want |title=Sophie Isaacs & The "Made in Dagenham" Female Cast – This Is What We Want Lyrics |author=<!--Not stated--> |website= |access-date=16 November 2019 }}</ref>

==See also==
* [[Daisy (doll)|Daisy]], doll designed by Quant

==Notes==
{{ref list|group=notes}}

==References==
{{Reflist|30em}}

==Further reading==
* Sandbrook, Dominic. ''White Heat: A history of Britain in the swinging sixties'' (Abacus, 2015) pp. 217–37.

==External links==
* {{FMD designer}}
* {{IMDb name}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20100510190133/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/exhibition/quant/index.html Mary Quant at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London] Accessed 3 June 2010.
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20091212035829/http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/miniskirt/features/mary-quant-in-progress Mary Quant – Miniskirt – Icons of England]
* [http://www.maryquant.co.uk Official website of Mary Quant Cosmetics]

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Quant, Mary}}
[[Category:1930 births]]
[[Category:Alumni of Goldsmiths, University of London]]
[[Category:British fashion designers]]
[[Category:Welsh fashion designers]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Dames Commander of the Order of the British Empire]]
[[Category:Chartered designers]]
[[Category:People from Blackheath, London]]
[[Category:People educated at Blackheath High School]]
[[Category:British women artists]]
[[Category:Welsh women artists]]

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Old page wikitext, before the edit (old_wikitext)
'{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}} {{EngvarB|date=January 2020}} {{short description|British fashion designer}} {{Infobox fashion designer |honorific_prefix = [[Dame]] |name = Mary Quant<br><small>[[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]]</small> |image = Mary Quant (1966).jpg |caption = Mary Quant (1966) |birth_name = Barbara Mary Quant |birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=y|1930|2|11}} |birth_place = [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, England |death_date = |death_place = |nationality = British |education = [[Goldsmith's College]] |label_name = Mary Quant |other_names = Barbara Mary Plunket Greene<ref>[http://thesteepletimes.com/fashion/mary-quant-obe-fscd Quant profile], thesteepletimes.com. Retrieved 7 May 2015.</ref> |spouse = Alexander Plunket Greene (1957–1990; his death) |children = 1 son |awards = [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] }} '''Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene''', [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] (born 11 February 1930)<ref name="birth">{{Cite web|url=https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=oGgoXw%2BvbvrRRYEJoMzGdA&scan=1|title=Entry Information: Births Mar 1930 Quant Barbara M|author=General Register Office|accessdate=20 February 2020|work=FreeBMD|publisher=ONS}}</ref> <ref group=notes>The Mary Quant exhibition at the [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] in 2019-20 stated her year of birth as 1930, and that she became a student at [[Goldsmith’s College]] around 1950. </ref> is an English fashion designer and fashion icon, who is of Welsh heritage.<ref name="britlist">{{cite web|title=The Brit List: Five Great British Fashion Designers|author=Ho, Karen|url=http://www.bbcamerica.com/anglophenia/2012/07/the-brit-list-five-great-british-fashion-designers|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[BBC America]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=3 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=New Year Honours: Designer Mary Quant among Welsh recipients|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-30624803|accessdate=9 January 2015|publisher=[[BBC News]]|date=30 December 2014}}</ref> She became an instrumental figure in the 1960s London-based [[Mod (subculture)|Mod]] and youth fashion movements.<ref name=britlist/><ref name=korea>{{cite news|title=Mary Quant, British Fashion Icon|author=Do Je-Hae|url=http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2012/08/142_117119.html|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[The Korea Times]]|date=10 October 2012}}</ref> She was one of the designers who took credit for the [[miniskirt]] and [[hotpants]], and by promoting these and other fun fashions she encouraged young people to dress to please themselves and to treat fashion as a game.<ref>{{cite book|last=McKinnell|first=Joyce|title=Beauty|year=1964|publisher=Harper Collins|isbn=9780007295586|page=93|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=eaEFd2S2kdoC&pg=PA93&lpg=PA93}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=1966 trouser suit by Mary Quant.|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O133302/trouser-suit-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> [[Ernestine Carter]], an authoritative and influential fashion journalist of the 1950s and 1960s,<ref name="odnb">Barbara Burman [http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/48273 accessed 12 July 2012 "Carter, Ernestine Marie (1906–1983)" profile, ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', Oxford University Press, 2004], oxforddnb.com. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref> wrote: "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there are three: [[Coco Chanel|Chanel]], [[Christian Dior|Dior]], and Mary Quant."<ref>{{cite book|last=Connikie|first=Yvonne|title=Fashion of a Decade|year=2006|publisher=Infobase Publishing|isbn=9781438118925|pages=17|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=9Q7PyCAxcCQC&pg=PA17}}</ref> ==Early life== Quant was born on 11 February 1930<ref name=birth/> in [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, the daughter of Welsh teachers.<ref>General Register Office of England and Wales, Births, March quarter 1930, Woolwich, Vol 1d, p. 1570.</ref> Her parents, Jack and Mildred Quant were both from mining families; however, they had been awarded scholarships to grammar school and had both attained first-class degrees at [[Cardiff University]] before they moved to London to work as school teachers.<ref name="Designers">{{cite book|author1=Polan, Brenda|author2=Tredre, Roger|title=The Great Fashion Designer|url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola|url-access=registration|pages=[https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/103 103]–04|publisher=Berg|location=New York|year=2009|isbn=978-1-84788-228-8}}</ref> She went to [[Blackheath High School]], then studied [[illustration]] at [[Goldsmiths, University of London|Goldsmiths College]]. After gaining a Diploma in Art Education from Goldsmiths, Quant began an apprenticeship at Erik, a high-end [[Mayfair]] [[Hatmaking|milliner]] on [[Brook Street]] next door to [[Claridge's]] hotel.<ref name="Designers"/><ref name="V&A">{{cite web|title=Mary Quant|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|accessdate=24 February 2011|work=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]] website|publisher=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]]|year=2011|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090914124204/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|archivedate=14 September 2009}}</ref><ref name=lisa>{{cite news|last=Armstrong|first=Lisa|title=Mary Quant: 'You have to work at staying slim – but it's worth it'|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9087300/Mary-Quant-You-have-to-work-at-staying-slim-but-its-worth-it.html|accessdate=17 October 2012|newspaper=The Telegraph|date=17 February 2012}}</ref> ==Marriage== She met her future husband and business partner, Alexander Plunket Greene, in 1953.<ref name=lisa/> They were married from 1957 until his death in 1990, and had a son, Orlando (b. 1970). ==Fashion career== [[File:Mary Quant 'Rex Harrison' cardigan dress chosen as Dress of the Year, 1963.jpg|thumb|right|125px|Mary Quant dress chosen as the [[Dress of the Year]], 19ch were featured in ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' and purchased by an American manufacturer to copy.<ref name=berg/> Following this, Quant decided to design and make more of the clothes she stocked, instead of buying in her stock.<ref name=berg/> Initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of sewing machine operators; by 1966 she was working with a total of 18 manufacturers. For a while in the late 1950s and early 1960s, Quant was one of only two London-based high-end designers consistently offering youthful clothes for young people.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Denza|first1=Vanessa|title=Interview with Vanessa Denza MBE|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/vanessa-denza-mbe/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=2 June 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Waddell|first1=Gavin|title=How fashion works: couture, ready-to-wear, and mass production|date=2004|publisher=Blackwell Science|location=Oxford, UK|isbn=9781118814994|page=130|edition=Online-Ausg.|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=GX-uAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA130}}</ref> The other was [[Kiki Byrne]], who opened her boutique on the [[King's Road]] in direct competition with Quant.<ref name=obyrne>{{cite book|last1=O'Byrne|first1=Robert|title=Style city: how London became a fashion capital|date=2009|publisher=Frances Lincoln|location=London|isbn=9780711228955|page=14}}</ref> ===Quant and the miniskirt=== [[File:1960s Mary Quant minidress, green, purple and white jersey.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Jersey minidress by Mary Quant, late 1960s]] The miniskirt, described as one of the defining [[1960s in fashion|fashions of the 1960s]],<ref>{{cite book |first1=Ros |last1=Horton |first2=Sally |last2=Simmons |date=2007 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7LYLOj2APSsC&pg=PA170 |title=Women Who Changed the World |page=170}}</ref> is one of the garments most widely associated with Quant. While she is often cited as the inventor of the style, this claim has been challenged by others. [[Marit Allen]], a contemporary fashion journalist and editor of the influential "Young Ideas" pages for UK [[Vogue (British magazine)|''Vogue'']], firmly stated that another British fashion designer, [[John Bates (designer)|John Bates]], rather than Quant or [[André Courrèges]], was the original creator of the miniskirt.<ref>{{cite web|title=Garments worn by Marit Allen|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/g/garments-worn-by-marit-allen/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> Others credit Courrèges with the invention of the style.<ref name=jess>{{cite news|last=Cartner-Morley|first=Jess|title=Chelsea girl who instigated a new era|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> However, skirts had been getting shorter since the 1950s—a development Quant considered practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus.<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |authorlink=Barry Miles |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=194 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> Quant later said: "It was the girls on the [[King's Road]] [during the "[[Swinging London]]" scene] who invented the mini. I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them very short and the customers would say, 'Shorter, shorter.'"<ref name="Designers"/> She gave the miniskirt its name, after her favourite make of car, the [[Mini]],<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=203 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> and said of its wearers: "they are curiously feminine, but their femininity lies in their attitude rather than in their appearance ... She enjoys being noticed, but wittily. She is lively—positive—opinionated."<ref name="seebohm19710719">{{cite news|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=A-MCAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA34&pg=PA34#v=onepage&q&f=true|title=English Girls in New York: They Don't Go Home Again|work=New York|date=19 July 1971|accessdate=6 January 2015|author=Seebohm, Caroline|page=34}}</ref> In addition to the miniskirt, Quant is often credited with inventing the coloured and patterned [[tights]] that tended to accompany the garment, although their creation is also attributed to the Spanish couturier [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]], who offered [[harlequin]]-patterned tights in 1962,<ref name=jess/><ref>{{cite book|last=Carter|first=Ernestine|title=The changing world of fashion: 1900 to the present|year=1977|publisher=Weidenfeld and Nicolson|location=London|isbn=9780297773498|pages=213|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=PNn-T8q3GMXV0QXltIC7Bw&id=AkdEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Balenciaga+stockings+patterned&q=Balenciaga+harlequin#search_anchor}}</ref> or to John Bates.<ref name="bates">Lester, Richard, ''John Bates: Fashion Designer'', London, 2008.<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> =Later career= In the late 1960s, Quant popularised [[hot pants]] and became a British fashion icon.<ref>{{cite web|title=Mary Quant profile|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Quant was responsible for hot pants, the Lolita look, the slip dress, PVC raincoats, smoky eyes and sleek bob haircuts, but it was make-up that eventually made her company the most money.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[BBC]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=November 2008}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|author=Hillary Alexander|title=Fashion designer Mary Quant to have design included on Royal Mail stamps|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Apart from the mini, Quant is credited with popularising white "go-go" boots, patterned tights, {{Sic|hide=y|brightly|-}}coloured "Paintbox" make-up, the micro-mini skirt, plastic raincoats, the "wet look", and hot-pants, which she designed in 1966, the year she received an OBE from the Queen for her services to the fashion industry.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|location=London, UK|date=9 January 2009}}</ref> Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up rather than just her clothing lines, including the [[duvet]], which she claims to have invented.<ref name=lisa/> In 1988, Quant designed the interior of the [[Mini]] (1000) Designer (originally dubbed the Mini Quant, the name was changed when popularity charts were set against having Quant's name on the car). It featured black-and-white striped seats with red trimming. The seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quant's signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering-wheel had Quant's signature daisy, and the bonnet badge had "Mary Quant" written over the signature name. The headlight housings, wheel arches, door handles and bumpers were all "nimbus grey", rather than the more common chrome or black finishes. Two thousand were released in the UK on 15 June 1988, and a number were also released on to foreign markets; however, the numbers for these are hard to come by. The special edition Mini came in two body colours, jet black and diamond white. In 2000, she resigned as director of Mary Quant Ltd, her cosmetics company, after a Japanese buy-out.<ref name=gillan>{{cite news|last=Gillan|first=Audrey|title=Mary Quant quits fashion empire|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> There are more than 200 Mary Quant Colour shops in Japan.<ref name="gillan" /> ===Recognition=== In 1963 Quant was the first winner of the [[Dress of the Year]] award. In 1966 she was appointed [[Officer of the Order of the British Empire]] (OBE) for her outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. She arrived at [[Buckingham Palace]] to accept the award in a cream wool jersey minidress with blue facings.<ref>{{cite web|title=O.B.E. Dress by Mary Quant|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138961/obe-dress-dress-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> In 1990 she won the Hall of Fame Award of the [[British Fashion Council]]. She was appointed [[Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] (DBE) in the [[2015 New Year Honours]] for services to British fashion.<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=61092 |supp=y|page=N8|date=31 December 2014}}</ref><ref>[https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf 2015 New Year Honours List] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150102104907/https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf |date=2 January 2015 }}, Government of the United Kingdom. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref> Quant received an Honorary Doctorate from [[Heriot-Watt University]] in 2006.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |title=Annual Review 2006 : People, Honours and Awards |website=www1.hw.ac.uk |access-date=30 March 2016 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20160413051238/http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |archivedate=13 April 2016 }}</ref> In 2012, she was among the [[Culture of the United Kingdom|British cultural icons]] selected by artist Sir [[Peter Blake (artist)|Peter Blake]] to appear in a new version of his most famous artwork – the Beatles' ''[[Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band]]'' album cover – to celebrate the British cultural figures of his life.<ref>{{cite news|title=New faces on Sgt Pepper album cover for artist Peter Blake's 80th birthday|url= https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/apr/02/peter-blake-sgt-pepper-cover-revisited|newspaper=The Guardian|year= 2016}}</ref> Quant is a [[Fellow#Learned or professional societies, or speciality training|Fellow]] of the [[Chartered Society of Designers]], and winner of the Minerva Medal, the Society's highest award.<ref>{{cite news|title=These were the days that shook the world|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2008/jan/20/review.features7|newspaper=The Guardian|date=5 October 2016}}</ref> ==Books by Quant== *1966: ''Quant by Quant''&nbsp;— her first autobiography *1984: ''Colour by Quant'' *1986: ''Quant on Make-up'' *1999: ''Classic Make-up and Beauty Book'' *2011: ''Mary Quant: Autobiography''&nbsp;— her second autobiography<ref>{{Cite book|author=Quant, Mary |year=2012 |title=Mary Quant: Autobiography |location=London |publisher=Headline |isbn=978-0-7553-6017-8|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KxyUSQAACAAJ}}</ref> == In popular culture == *In the 1966 [[Donovan]] song "Sunny South Kensington", Quant and [[Jean-Paul Belmondo]]'s drug use/abuse is immortalised in the lyric: "Jean-Paul Belmondo and-a Mary Quant got [[substance intoxication|stoned]], to say the least".<ref>"Sunny South Kensington", ''The Little Black Songbook Of Donovan'', Wise Publications, 2013, {{ISBN|978-1-78305-101-4}}, p. 136.</ref><ref>EPIC 5-10098, "Mellow Yellow/Sunny South Kensington" 45 rpm single, 1966.</ref> *Quant is referenced in the musical number "''This Is What We Want''" in the 2014 stage musical [[Made in Dagenham (musical)|Made in Dagenham]], based on the 2010 [[Made in Dagenham|film of the same name]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.musixmatch.com/lyrics/Sophie-Isaacs-The-Made-in-Dagenham-Female-Cast/This-Is-What-We-Want |title=Sophie Isaacs & The "Made in Dagenham" Female Cast – This Is What We Want Lyrics |author=<!--Not stated--> |website= |access-date=16 November 2019 }}</ref> ==See also== * [[Daisy (doll)|Daisy]], doll designed by Quant ==Notes== {{ref list|group=notes}} ==References== {{Reflist|30em}} ==Further reading== * Sandbrook, Dominic. ''White Heat: A history of Britain in the swinging sixties'' (Abacus, 2015) pp. 217–37. ==External links== * {{FMD designer}} * {{IMDb name}} * [https://web.archive.org/web/20100510190133/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/exhibition/quant/index.html Mary Quant at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London] Accessed 3 June 2010. * [https://web.archive.org/web/20091212035829/http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/miniskirt/features/mary-quant-in-progress Mary Quant – Miniskirt – Icons of England] * [http://www.maryquant.co.uk Official website of Mary Quant Cosmetics] {{Authority control}} {{DEFAULTSORT:Quant, Mary}} [[Category:1930 births]] [[Category:Alumni of Goldsmiths, University of London]] [[Category:British fashion designers]] [[Category:Welsh fashion designers]] [[Category:Living people]] [[Category:Dames Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] [[Category:Chartered designers]] [[Category:People from Blackheath, London]] [[Category:People educated at Blackheath High School]] [[Category:British women artists]] [[Category:Welsh women artists]]'
New page wikitext, after the edit (new_wikitext)
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Unified diff of changes made by edit (edit_diff)
'@@ -1,108 +1,1 @@ -{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}} -{{EngvarB|date=January 2020}} -{{short description|British fashion designer}} -{{Infobox fashion designer -|honorific_prefix = [[Dame]] -|name = Mary Quant<br><small>[[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]]</small> -|image = Mary Quant (1966).jpg -|caption = Mary Quant (1966) -|birth_name = Barbara Mary Quant -|birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=y|1930|2|11}} -|birth_place = [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, England -|death_date = -|death_place = -|nationality = British -|education = [[Goldsmith's College]] -|label_name = Mary Quant -|other_names = Barbara Mary Plunket Greene<ref>[http://thesteepletimes.com/fashion/mary-quant-obe-fscd Quant profile], thesteepletimes.com. Retrieved 7 May 2015.</ref> -|spouse = Alexander Plunket Greene (1957–1990; his death) -|children = 1 son -|awards = [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] -}} - -'''Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene''', [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] (born 11 February 1930)<ref name="birth">{{Cite web|url=https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=oGgoXw%2BvbvrRRYEJoMzGdA&scan=1|title=Entry Information: Births Mar 1930 Quant Barbara M|author=General Register Office|accessdate=20 February 2020|work=FreeBMD|publisher=ONS}}</ref> <ref group=notes>The Mary Quant exhibition at the [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] in 2019-20 stated her year of birth as 1930, and that she became a student at [[Goldsmith’s College]] around 1950. </ref> is an English fashion designer and fashion icon, who is of Welsh heritage.<ref name="britlist">{{cite web|title=The Brit List: Five Great British Fashion Designers|author=Ho, Karen|url=http://www.bbcamerica.com/anglophenia/2012/07/the-brit-list-five-great-british-fashion-designers|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[BBC America]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=3 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=New Year Honours: Designer Mary Quant among Welsh recipients|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-30624803|accessdate=9 January 2015|publisher=[[BBC News]]|date=30 December 2014}}</ref> - -She became an instrumental figure in the 1960s London-based [[Mod (subculture)|Mod]] and youth fashion movements.<ref name=britlist/><ref name=korea>{{cite news|title=Mary Quant, British Fashion Icon|author=Do Je-Hae|url=http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2012/08/142_117119.html|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[The Korea Times]]|date=10 October 2012}}</ref> She was one of the designers who took credit for the [[miniskirt]] and [[hotpants]], and by promoting these and other fun fashions she encouraged young people to dress to please themselves and to treat fashion as a game.<ref>{{cite book|last=McKinnell|first=Joyce|title=Beauty|year=1964|publisher=Harper Collins|isbn=9780007295586|page=93|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=eaEFd2S2kdoC&pg=PA93&lpg=PA93}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=1966 trouser suit by Mary Quant.|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O133302/trouser-suit-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> [[Ernestine Carter]], an authoritative and influential fashion journalist of the 1950s and 1960s,<ref name="odnb">Barbara Burman [http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/48273 accessed 12 July 2012 "Carter, Ernestine Marie (1906–1983)" profile, ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', Oxford University Press, 2004], oxforddnb.com. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref> wrote: "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there are three: [[Coco Chanel|Chanel]], [[Christian Dior|Dior]], and Mary Quant."<ref>{{cite book|last=Connikie|first=Yvonne|title=Fashion of a Decade|year=2006|publisher=Infobase Publishing|isbn=9781438118925|pages=17|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=9Q7PyCAxcCQC&pg=PA17}}</ref> - -==Early life== - -Quant was born on 11 February 1930<ref name=birth/> in [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, the daughter of Welsh teachers.<ref>General Register Office of England and Wales, Births, March quarter 1930, Woolwich, Vol 1d, p. 1570.</ref> Her parents, Jack and Mildred Quant were both from mining families; however, they had been awarded scholarships to grammar school and had both attained first-class degrees at [[Cardiff University]] before they moved to London to work as school teachers.<ref name="Designers">{{cite book|author1=Polan, Brenda|author2=Tredre, Roger|title=The Great Fashion Designer|url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola|url-access=registration|pages=[https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/103 103]–04|publisher=Berg|location=New York|year=2009|isbn=978-1-84788-228-8}}</ref> - -She went to [[Blackheath High School]], then studied [[illustration]] at [[Goldsmiths, University of London|Goldsmiths College]]. After gaining a Diploma in Art Education from Goldsmiths, Quant began an apprenticeship at Erik, a high-end [[Mayfair]] [[Hatmaking|milliner]] on [[Brook Street]] next door to [[Claridge's]] hotel.<ref name="Designers"/><ref name="V&A">{{cite web|title=Mary Quant|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|accessdate=24 February 2011|work=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]] website|publisher=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]]|year=2011|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090914124204/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|archivedate=14 September 2009}}</ref><ref name=lisa>{{cite news|last=Armstrong|first=Lisa|title=Mary Quant: 'You have to work at staying slim – but it's worth it'|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9087300/Mary-Quant-You-have-to-work-at-staying-slim-but-its-worth-it.html|accessdate=17 October 2012|newspaper=The Telegraph|date=17 February 2012}}</ref> - -==Marriage== -She met her future husband and business partner, Alexander Plunket Greene, in 1953.<ref name=lisa/> They were married from 1957 until his death in 1990, and had a son, Orlando (b. 1970). - -==Fashion career== -[[File:Mary Quant 'Rex Harrison' cardigan dress chosen as Dress of the Year, 1963.jpg|thumb|right|125px|Mary Quant dress chosen as the [[Dress of the Year]], 19ch were featured in ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' and purchased by an American manufacturer to copy.<ref name=berg/> Following this, Quant decided to design and make more of the clothes she stocked, instead of buying in her stock.<ref name=berg/> Initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of sewing machine operators; by 1966 she was working with a total of 18 manufacturers. - -For a while in the late 1950s and early 1960s, Quant was one of only two London-based high-end designers consistently offering youthful clothes for young people.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Denza|first1=Vanessa|title=Interview with Vanessa Denza MBE|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/vanessa-denza-mbe/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=2 June 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Waddell|first1=Gavin|title=How fashion works: couture, ready-to-wear, and mass production|date=2004|publisher=Blackwell Science|location=Oxford, UK|isbn=9781118814994|page=130|edition=Online-Ausg.|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=GX-uAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA130}}</ref> The other was [[Kiki Byrne]], who opened her boutique on the [[King's Road]] in direct competition with Quant.<ref name=obyrne>{{cite book|last1=O'Byrne|first1=Robert|title=Style city: how London became a fashion capital|date=2009|publisher=Frances Lincoln|location=London|isbn=9780711228955|page=14}}</ref> - -===Quant and the miniskirt=== -[[File:1960s Mary Quant minidress, green, purple and white jersey.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Jersey minidress by Mary Quant, late 1960s]] -The miniskirt, described as one of the defining [[1960s in fashion|fashions of the 1960s]],<ref>{{cite book |first1=Ros |last1=Horton |first2=Sally |last2=Simmons |date=2007 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7LYLOj2APSsC&pg=PA170 |title=Women Who Changed the World |page=170}}</ref> is one of the garments most widely associated with Quant. While she is often cited as the inventor of the style, this claim has been challenged by others. [[Marit Allen]], a contemporary fashion journalist and editor of the influential "Young Ideas" pages for UK [[Vogue (British magazine)|''Vogue'']], firmly stated that another British fashion designer, [[John Bates (designer)|John Bates]], rather than Quant or [[André Courrèges]], was the original creator of the miniskirt.<ref>{{cite web|title=Garments worn by Marit Allen|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/g/garments-worn-by-marit-allen/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> Others credit Courrèges with the invention of the style.<ref name=jess>{{cite news|last=Cartner-Morley|first=Jess|title=Chelsea girl who instigated a new era|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> However, skirts had been getting shorter since the 1950s—a development Quant considered practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus.<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |authorlink=Barry Miles |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=194 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> - -Quant later said: "It was the girls on the [[King's Road]] [during the "[[Swinging London]]" scene] who invented the mini. I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them very short and the customers would say, 'Shorter, shorter.'"<ref name="Designers"/> She gave the miniskirt its name, after her favourite make of car, the [[Mini]],<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=203 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> and said of its wearers: "they are curiously feminine, but their femininity lies in their attitude rather than in their appearance ... She enjoys being noticed, but wittily. She is lively—positive—opinionated."<ref name="seebohm19710719">{{cite news|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=A-MCAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA34&pg=PA34#v=onepage&q&f=true|title=English Girls in New York: They Don't Go Home Again|work=New York|date=19 July 1971|accessdate=6 January 2015|author=Seebohm, Caroline|page=34}}</ref> - -In addition to the miniskirt, Quant is often credited with inventing the coloured and patterned [[tights]] that tended to accompany the garment, although their creation is also attributed to the Spanish couturier [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]], who offered [[harlequin]]-patterned tights in 1962,<ref name=jess/><ref>{{cite book|last=Carter|first=Ernestine|title=The changing world of fashion: 1900 to the present|year=1977|publisher=Weidenfeld and Nicolson|location=London|isbn=9780297773498|pages=213|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=PNn-T8q3GMXV0QXltIC7Bw&id=AkdEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Balenciaga+stockings+patterned&q=Balenciaga+harlequin#search_anchor}}</ref> or to John Bates.<ref name="bates">Lester, Richard, ''John Bates: Fashion Designer'', London, 2008.<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> - -=Later career= -In the late 1960s, Quant popularised [[hot pants]] and became a British fashion icon.<ref>{{cite web|title=Mary Quant profile|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Quant was responsible for hot pants, the Lolita look, the slip dress, PVC raincoats, smoky eyes and sleek bob haircuts, but it was make-up that eventually made her company the most money.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[BBC]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=November 2008}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|author=Hillary Alexander|title=Fashion designer Mary Quant to have design included on Royal Mail stamps|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Apart from the mini, Quant is credited with popularising white "go-go" boots, patterned tights, {{Sic|hide=y|brightly|-}}coloured "Paintbox" make-up, the micro-mini skirt, plastic raincoats, the "wet look", and hot-pants, which she designed in 1966, the year she received an OBE from the Queen for her services to the fashion industry.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|location=London, UK|date=9 January 2009}}</ref> Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up rather than just her clothing lines, including the [[duvet]], which she claims to have invented.<ref name=lisa/> - -In 1988, Quant designed the interior of the [[Mini]] (1000) Designer (originally dubbed the Mini Quant, the name was changed when popularity charts were set against having Quant's name on the car). It featured black-and-white striped seats with red trimming. The seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quant's signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering-wheel had Quant's signature daisy, and the bonnet badge had "Mary Quant" written over the signature name. The headlight housings, wheel arches, door handles and bumpers were all "nimbus grey", rather than the more common chrome or black finishes. Two thousand were released in the UK on 15 June 1988, and a number were also released on to foreign markets; however, the numbers for these are hard to come by. The special edition Mini came in two body colours, jet black and diamond white. - -In 2000, she resigned as director of Mary Quant Ltd, her cosmetics company, after a Japanese buy-out.<ref name=gillan>{{cite news|last=Gillan|first=Audrey|title=Mary Quant quits fashion empire|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> There are more than 200 Mary Quant Colour shops in Japan.<ref name="gillan" /> - -===Recognition=== -In 1963 Quant was the first winner of the [[Dress of the Year]] award. In 1966 she was appointed [[Officer of the Order of the British Empire]] (OBE) for her outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. She arrived at [[Buckingham Palace]] to accept the award in a cream wool jersey minidress with blue facings.<ref>{{cite web|title=O.B.E. Dress by Mary Quant|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138961/obe-dress-dress-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> -In 1990 she won the Hall of Fame Award of the [[British Fashion Council]]. -She was appointed [[Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] (DBE) in the [[2015 New Year Honours]] for services to British fashion.<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=61092 |supp=y|page=N8|date=31 December 2014}}</ref><ref>[https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf 2015 New Year Honours List] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150102104907/https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf |date=2 January 2015 }}, Government of the United Kingdom. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref> - -Quant received an Honorary Doctorate from [[Heriot-Watt University]] in 2006.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |title=Annual Review 2006 : People, Honours and Awards |website=www1.hw.ac.uk |access-date=30 March 2016 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20160413051238/http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |archivedate=13 April 2016 }}</ref> In 2012, she was among the [[Culture of the United Kingdom|British cultural icons]] selected by artist Sir [[Peter Blake (artist)|Peter Blake]] to appear in a new version of his most famous artwork – the Beatles' ''[[Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band]]'' album cover – to celebrate the British cultural figures of his life.<ref>{{cite news|title=New faces on Sgt Pepper album cover for artist Peter Blake's 80th birthday|url= https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/apr/02/peter-blake-sgt-pepper-cover-revisited|newspaper=The Guardian|year= 2016}}</ref> - -Quant is a [[Fellow#Learned or professional societies, or speciality training|Fellow]] of the [[Chartered Society of Designers]], and winner of the Minerva Medal, the Society's highest award.<ref>{{cite news|title=These were the days that shook the world|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2008/jan/20/review.features7|newspaper=The Guardian|date=5 October 2016}}</ref> - -==Books by Quant== -*1966: ''Quant by Quant''&nbsp;— her first autobiography -*1984: ''Colour by Quant'' -*1986: ''Quant on Make-up'' -*1999: ''Classic Make-up and Beauty Book'' -*2011: ''Mary Quant: Autobiography''&nbsp;— her second autobiography<ref>{{Cite book|author=Quant, Mary |year=2012 |title=Mary Quant: Autobiography |location=London |publisher=Headline |isbn=978-0-7553-6017-8|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KxyUSQAACAAJ}}</ref> - -== In popular culture == -*In the 1966 [[Donovan]] song "Sunny South Kensington", Quant and [[Jean-Paul Belmondo]]'s drug use/abuse is immortalised in the lyric: "Jean-Paul Belmondo and-a Mary Quant got [[substance intoxication|stoned]], to say the least".<ref>"Sunny South Kensington", ''The Little Black Songbook Of Donovan'', Wise Publications, 2013, {{ISBN|978-1-78305-101-4}}, p. 136.</ref><ref>EPIC 5-10098, "Mellow Yellow/Sunny South Kensington" 45 rpm single, 1966.</ref> -*Quant is referenced in the musical number "''This Is What We Want''" in the 2014 stage musical [[Made in Dagenham (musical)|Made in Dagenham]], based on the 2010 [[Made in Dagenham|film of the same name]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.musixmatch.com/lyrics/Sophie-Isaacs-The-Made-in-Dagenham-Female-Cast/This-Is-What-We-Want |title=Sophie Isaacs & The "Made in Dagenham" Female Cast – This Is What We Want Lyrics |author=<!--Not stated--> |website= |access-date=16 November 2019 }}</ref> - -==See also== -* [[Daisy (doll)|Daisy]], doll designed by Quant - -==Notes== -{{ref list|group=notes}} - -==References== -{{Reflist|30em}} - -==Further reading== -* Sandbrook, Dominic. ''White Heat: A history of Britain in the swinging sixties'' (Abacus, 2015) pp. 217–37. - -==External links== -* {{FMD designer}} -* {{IMDb name}} -* [https://web.archive.org/web/20100510190133/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/exhibition/quant/index.html Mary Quant at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London] Accessed 3 June 2010. -* [https://web.archive.org/web/20091212035829/http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/miniskirt/features/mary-quant-in-progress Mary Quant – Miniskirt – Icons of England] -* [http://www.maryquant.co.uk Official website of Mary Quant Cosmetics] - -{{Authority control}} - -{{DEFAULTSORT:Quant, Mary}} -[[Category:1930 births]] -[[Category:Alumni of Goldsmiths, University of London]] -[[Category:British fashion designers]] -[[Category:Welsh fashion designers]] -[[Category:Living people]] -[[Category:Dames Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] -[[Category:Chartered designers]] -[[Category:People from Blackheath, London]] -[[Category:People educated at Blackheath High School]] -[[Category:British women artists]] -[[Category:Welsh women artists]] +ÈĦĥŊḥŅŔíÑRŇıÎÎņņņņñññŘÐŖ '
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[ 0 => '{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}}', 1 => '{{EngvarB|date=January 2020}}', 2 => '{{short description|British fashion designer}}', 3 => '{{Infobox fashion designer', 4 => '|honorific_prefix = [[Dame]]', 5 => '|name = Mary Quant<br><small>[[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]]</small>', 6 => '|image = Mary Quant (1966).jpg', 7 => '|caption = Mary Quant (1966)', 8 => '|birth_name = Barbara Mary Quant', 9 => '|birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=y|1930|2|11}}', 10 => '|birth_place = [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, England', 11 => '|death_date = ', 12 => '|death_place = ', 13 => '|nationality = British', 14 => '|education = [[Goldsmith's College]]', 15 => '|label_name = Mary Quant', 16 => '|other_names = Barbara Mary Plunket Greene<ref>[http://thesteepletimes.com/fashion/mary-quant-obe-fscd Quant profile], thesteepletimes.com. Retrieved 7 May 2015.</ref>', 17 => '|spouse = Alexander Plunket Greene (1957–1990; his death)', 18 => '|children = 1 son', 19 => '|awards = [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]]', 20 => '}}', 21 => '', 22 => ''''Dame Barbara Mary Quant, Mrs Plunket Greene''', [[Order of the British Empire|DBE]], [[Chartered Society of Designers|FCSD]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] (born 11 February 1930)<ref name="birth">{{Cite web|url=https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=oGgoXw%2BvbvrRRYEJoMzGdA&scan=1|title=Entry Information: Births Mar 1930 Quant Barbara M|author=General Register Office|accessdate=20 February 2020|work=FreeBMD|publisher=ONS}}</ref> <ref group=notes>The Mary Quant exhibition at the [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] in 2019-20 stated her year of birth as 1930, and that she became a student at [[Goldsmith’s College]] around 1950. </ref> is an English fashion designer and fashion icon, who is of Welsh heritage.<ref name="britlist">{{cite web|title=The Brit List: Five Great British Fashion Designers|author=Ho, Karen|url=http://www.bbcamerica.com/anglophenia/2012/07/the-brit-list-five-great-british-fashion-designers|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[BBC America]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=3 July 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=New Year Honours: Designer Mary Quant among Welsh recipients|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-30624803|accessdate=9 January 2015|publisher=[[BBC News]]|date=30 December 2014}}</ref>', 23 => '', 24 => 'She became an instrumental figure in the 1960s London-based [[Mod (subculture)|Mod]] and youth fashion movements.<ref name=britlist/><ref name=korea>{{cite news|title=Mary Quant, British Fashion Icon|author=Do Je-Hae|url=http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2012/08/142_117119.html|accessdate=16 October 2012|work=[[The Korea Times]]|date=10 October 2012}}</ref> She was one of the designers who took credit for the [[miniskirt]] and [[hotpants]], and by promoting these and other fun fashions she encouraged young people to dress to please themselves and to treat fashion as a game.<ref>{{cite book|last=McKinnell|first=Joyce|title=Beauty|year=1964|publisher=Harper Collins|isbn=9780007295586|page=93|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=eaEFd2S2kdoC&pg=PA93&lpg=PA93}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=1966 trouser suit by Mary Quant.|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O133302/trouser-suit-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> [[Ernestine Carter]], an authoritative and influential fashion journalist of the 1950s and 1960s,<ref name="odnb">Barbara Burman [http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/48273 accessed 12 July 2012 "Carter, Ernestine Marie (1906–1983)" profile, ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', Oxford University Press, 2004], oxforddnb.com. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref> wrote: "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there are three: [[Coco Chanel|Chanel]], [[Christian Dior|Dior]], and Mary Quant."<ref>{{cite book|last=Connikie|first=Yvonne|title=Fashion of a Decade|year=2006|publisher=Infobase Publishing|isbn=9781438118925|pages=17|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=9Q7PyCAxcCQC&pg=PA17}}</ref>', 25 => '', 26 => '==Early life==', 27 => '', 28 => 'Quant was born on 11 February 1930<ref name=birth/> in [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]], London, the daughter of Welsh teachers.<ref>General Register Office of England and Wales, Births, March quarter 1930, Woolwich, Vol 1d, p. 1570.</ref> Her parents, Jack and Mildred Quant were both from mining families; however, they had been awarded scholarships to grammar school and had both attained first-class degrees at [[Cardiff University]] before they moved to London to work as school teachers.<ref name="Designers">{{cite book|author1=Polan, Brenda|author2=Tredre, Roger|title=The Great Fashion Designer|url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola|url-access=registration|pages=[https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/103 103]–04|publisher=Berg|location=New York|year=2009|isbn=978-1-84788-228-8}}</ref> ', 29 => '', 30 => 'She went to [[Blackheath High School]], then studied [[illustration]] at [[Goldsmiths, University of London|Goldsmiths College]]. After gaining a Diploma in Art Education from Goldsmiths, Quant began an apprenticeship at Erik, a high-end [[Mayfair]] [[Hatmaking|milliner]] on [[Brook Street]] next door to [[Claridge's]] hotel.<ref name="Designers"/><ref name="V&A">{{cite web|title=Mary Quant|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|accessdate=24 February 2011|work=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]] website|publisher=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]]|year=2011|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090914124204/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/mary_quant/index.html|archivedate=14 September 2009}}</ref><ref name=lisa>{{cite news|last=Armstrong|first=Lisa|title=Mary Quant: 'You have to work at staying slim – but it's worth it'|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9087300/Mary-Quant-You-have-to-work-at-staying-slim-but-its-worth-it.html|accessdate=17 October 2012|newspaper=The Telegraph|date=17 February 2012}}</ref>', 31 => '', 32 => '==Marriage==', 33 => 'She met her future husband and business partner, Alexander Plunket Greene, in 1953.<ref name=lisa/> They were married from 1957 until his death in 1990, and had a son, Orlando (b. 1970).', 34 => '', 35 => '==Fashion career==', 36 => '[[File:Mary Quant 'Rex Harrison' cardigan dress chosen as Dress of the Year, 1963.jpg|thumb|right|125px|Mary Quant dress chosen as the [[Dress of the Year]], 19ch were featured in ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' and purchased by an American manufacturer to copy.<ref name=berg/> Following this, Quant decided to design and make more of the clothes she stocked, instead of buying in her stock.<ref name=berg/> Initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of sewing machine operators; by 1966 she was working with a total of 18 manufacturers.', 37 => '', 38 => 'For a while in the late 1950s and early 1960s, Quant was one of only two London-based high-end designers consistently offering youthful clothes for young people.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Denza|first1=Vanessa|title=Interview with Vanessa Denza MBE|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/vanessa-denza-mbe/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=2 June 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Waddell|first1=Gavin|title=How fashion works: couture, ready-to-wear, and mass production|date=2004|publisher=Blackwell Science|location=Oxford, UK|isbn=9781118814994|page=130|edition=Online-Ausg.|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=GX-uAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA130}}</ref> The other was [[Kiki Byrne]], who opened her boutique on the [[King's Road]] in direct competition with Quant.<ref name=obyrne>{{cite book|last1=O'Byrne|first1=Robert|title=Style city: how London became a fashion capital|date=2009|publisher=Frances Lincoln|location=London|isbn=9780711228955|page=14}}</ref>', 39 => '', 40 => '===Quant and the miniskirt===', 41 => '[[File:1960s Mary Quant minidress, green, purple and white jersey.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Jersey minidress by Mary Quant, late 1960s]]', 42 => 'The miniskirt, described as one of the defining [[1960s in fashion|fashions of the 1960s]],<ref>{{cite book |first1=Ros |last1=Horton |first2=Sally |last2=Simmons |date=2007 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7LYLOj2APSsC&pg=PA170 |title=Women Who Changed the World |page=170}}</ref> is one of the garments most widely associated with Quant. While she is often cited as the inventor of the style, this claim has been challenged by others. [[Marit Allen]], a contemporary fashion journalist and editor of the influential "Young Ideas" pages for UK [[Vogue (British magazine)|''Vogue'']], firmly stated that another British fashion designer, [[John Bates (designer)|John Bates]], rather than Quant or [[André Courrèges]], was the original creator of the miniskirt.<ref>{{cite web|title=Garments worn by Marit Allen|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/g/garments-worn-by-marit-allen/|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> Others credit Courrèges with the invention of the style.<ref name=jess>{{cite news|last=Cartner-Morley|first=Jess|title=Chelsea girl who instigated a new era|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> However, skirts had been getting shorter since the 1950s—a development Quant considered practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus.<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |authorlink=Barry Miles |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=194 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref>', 43 => '', 44 => 'Quant later said: "It was the girls on the [[King's Road]] [during the "[[Swinging London]]" scene] who invented the mini. I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them very short and the customers would say, 'Shorter, shorter.'"<ref name="Designers"/> She gave the miniskirt its name, after her favourite make of car, the [[Mini]],<ref>{{cite book |last=Miles |first=Barry |url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=r8xbaIlrUREC&pg=PA194 |title=The British Invasion: The Music, the Times, the Era |page=203 |publisher=Sterling Publishing Company, Inc. |year=2009}}<!-- ISBN needed --></ref> and said of its wearers: "they are curiously feminine, but their femininity lies in their attitude rather than in their appearance ... She enjoys being noticed, but wittily. She is lively—positive—opinionated."<ref name="seebohm19710719">{{cite news|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=A-MCAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA34&pg=PA34#v=onepage&q&f=true|title=English Girls in New York: They Don't Go Home Again|work=New York|date=19 July 1971|accessdate=6 January 2015|author=Seebohm, Caroline|page=34}}</ref>', 45 => '', 46 => 'In addition to the miniskirt, Quant is often credited with inventing the coloured and patterned [[tights]] that tended to accompany the garment, although their creation is also attributed to the Spanish couturier [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]], who offered [[harlequin]]-patterned tights in 1962,<ref name=jess/><ref>{{cite book|last=Carter|first=Ernestine|title=The changing world of fashion: 1900 to the present|year=1977|publisher=Weidenfeld and Nicolson|location=London|isbn=9780297773498|pages=213|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=PNn-T8q3GMXV0QXltIC7Bw&id=AkdEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Balenciaga+stockings+patterned&q=Balenciaga+harlequin#search_anchor}}</ref> or to John Bates.<ref name="bates">Lester, Richard, ''John Bates: Fashion Designer'', London, 2008.<!-- ISBN needed --></ref>', 47 => '', 48 => '=Later career=', 49 => 'In the late 1960s, Quant popularised [[hot pants]] and became a British fashion icon.<ref>{{cite web|title=Mary Quant profile|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Quant was responsible for hot pants, the Lolita look, the slip dress, PVC raincoats, smoky eyes and sleek bob haircuts, but it was make-up that eventually made her company the most money.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[BBC]] website|publisher=[[BBC]]|date=November 2008}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|author=Hillary Alexander|title=Fashion designer Mary Quant to have design included on Royal Mail stamps|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/ilove/years/1966/fashion3.shtml|quote=Apart from the mini, Quant is credited with popularising white "go-go" boots, patterned tights, {{Sic|hide=y|brightly|-}}coloured "Paintbox" make-up, the micro-mini skirt, plastic raincoats, the "wet look", and hot-pants, which she designed in 1966, the year she received an OBE from the Queen for her services to the fashion industry.|accessdate=9 January 2011|work=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|location=London, UK|date=9 January 2009}}</ref> Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up rather than just her clothing lines, including the [[duvet]], which she claims to have invented.<ref name=lisa/>', 50 => '', 51 => 'In 1988, Quant designed the interior of the [[Mini]] (1000) Designer (originally dubbed the Mini Quant, the name was changed when popularity charts were set against having Quant's name on the car). It featured black-and-white striped seats with red trimming. The seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quant's signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering-wheel had Quant's signature daisy, and the bonnet badge had "Mary Quant" written over the signature name. The headlight housings, wheel arches, door handles and bumpers were all "nimbus grey", rather than the more common chrome or black finishes. Two thousand were released in the UK on 15 June 1988, and a number were also released on to foreign markets; however, the numbers for these are hard to come by. The special edition Mini came in two body colours, jet black and diamond white. ', 52 => '', 53 => 'In 2000, she resigned as director of Mary Quant Ltd, her cosmetics company, after a Japanese buy-out.<ref name=gillan>{{cite news|last=Gillan|first=Audrey|title=Mary Quant quits fashion empire|url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan|accessdate=12 July 2012|newspaper=The Guardian|date=2 December 2000}}</ref> There are more than 200 Mary Quant Colour shops in Japan.<ref name="gillan" />', 54 => '', 55 => '===Recognition===', 56 => 'In 1963 Quant was the first winner of the [[Dress of the Year]] award. In 1966 she was appointed [[Officer of the Order of the British Empire]] (OBE) for her outstanding contribution to the fashion industry. She arrived at [[Buckingham Palace]] to accept the award in a cream wool jersey minidress with blue facings.<ref>{{cite web|title=O.B.E. Dress by Mary Quant|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138961/obe-dress-dress-quant-mary/?print=1|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|accessdate=12 July 2012}}</ref> ', 57 => 'In 1990 she won the Hall of Fame Award of the [[British Fashion Council]]. ', 58 => 'She was appointed [[Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] (DBE) in the [[2015 New Year Honours]] for services to British fashion.<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=61092 |supp=y|page=N8|date=31 December 2014}}</ref><ref>[https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf 2015 New Year Honours List] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150102104907/https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/391413/New_Year_Honours_List_2015.pdf |date=2 January 2015 }}, Government of the United Kingdom. Retrieved 31 December 2014.</ref>', 59 => '', 60 => 'Quant received an Honorary Doctorate from [[Heriot-Watt University]] in 2006.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |title=Annual Review 2006 : People, Honours and Awards |website=www1.hw.ac.uk |access-date=30 March 2016 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20160413051238/http://www1.hw.ac.uk/annual-review/2006/people_awards.html |archivedate=13 April 2016 }}</ref> In 2012, she was among the [[Culture of the United Kingdom|British cultural icons]] selected by artist Sir [[Peter Blake (artist)|Peter Blake]] to appear in a new version of his most famous artwork – the Beatles' ''[[Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band]]'' album cover – to celebrate the British cultural figures of his life.<ref>{{cite news|title=New faces on Sgt Pepper album cover for artist Peter Blake's 80th birthday|url= https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/apr/02/peter-blake-sgt-pepper-cover-revisited|newspaper=The Guardian|year= 2016}}</ref>', 61 => '', 62 => 'Quant is a [[Fellow#Learned or professional societies, or speciality training|Fellow]] of the [[Chartered Society of Designers]], and winner of the Minerva Medal, the Society's highest award.<ref>{{cite news|title=These were the days that shook the world|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2008/jan/20/review.features7|newspaper=The Guardian|date=5 October 2016}}</ref>', 63 => '', 64 => '==Books by Quant==', 65 => '*1966: ''Quant by Quant''&nbsp;— her first autobiography', 66 => '*1984: ''Colour by Quant''', 67 => '*1986: ''Quant on Make-up''', 68 => '*1999: ''Classic Make-up and Beauty Book''', 69 => '*2011: ''Mary Quant: Autobiography''&nbsp;— her second autobiography<ref>{{Cite book|author=Quant, Mary |year=2012 |title=Mary Quant: Autobiography |location=London |publisher=Headline |isbn=978-0-7553-6017-8|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KxyUSQAACAAJ}}</ref>', 70 => '', 71 => '== In popular culture ==', 72 => '*In the 1966 [[Donovan]] song "Sunny South Kensington", Quant and [[Jean-Paul Belmondo]]'s drug use/abuse is immortalised in the lyric: "Jean-Paul Belmondo and-a Mary Quant got [[substance intoxication|stoned]], to say the least".<ref>"Sunny South Kensington", ''The Little Black Songbook Of Donovan'', Wise Publications, 2013, {{ISBN|978-1-78305-101-4}}, p. 136.</ref><ref>EPIC 5-10098, "Mellow Yellow/Sunny South Kensington" 45 rpm single, 1966.</ref>', 73 => '*Quant is referenced in the musical number "''This Is What We Want''" in the 2014 stage musical [[Made in Dagenham (musical)|Made in Dagenham]], based on the 2010 [[Made in Dagenham|film of the same name]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.musixmatch.com/lyrics/Sophie-Isaacs-The-Made-in-Dagenham-Female-Cast/This-Is-What-We-Want |title=Sophie Isaacs & The "Made in Dagenham" Female Cast – This Is What We Want Lyrics |author=<!--Not stated--> |website= |access-date=16 November 2019 }}</ref>', 74 => '', 75 => '==See also==', 76 => '* [[Daisy (doll)|Daisy]], doll designed by Quant', 77 => '', 78 => '==Notes==', 79 => '{{ref list|group=notes}}', 80 => '', 81 => '==References==', 82 => '{{Reflist|30em}}', 83 => '', 84 => '==Further reading==', 85 => '* Sandbrook, Dominic. ''White Heat: A history of Britain in the swinging sixties'' (Abacus, 2015) pp. 217–37.', 86 => '', 87 => '==External links==', 88 => '* {{FMD designer}}', 89 => '* {{IMDb name}}', 90 => '* [https://web.archive.org/web/20100510190133/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/exhibition/quant/index.html Mary Quant at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London] Accessed 3 June 2010.', 91 => '* [https://web.archive.org/web/20091212035829/http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/miniskirt/features/mary-quant-in-progress Mary Quant – Miniskirt – Icons of England]', 92 => '* [http://www.maryquant.co.uk Official website of Mary Quant Cosmetics]', 93 => '', 94 => '{{Authority control}}', 95 => '', 96 => '{{DEFAULTSORT:Quant, Mary}}', 97 => '[[Category:1930 births]]', 98 => '[[Category:Alumni of Goldsmiths, University of London]]', 99 => '[[Category:British fashion designers]]', 100 => '[[Category:Welsh fashion designers]]', 101 => '[[Category:Living people]]', 102 => '[[Category:Dames Commander of the Order of the British Empire]]', 103 => '[[Category:Chartered designers]]', 104 => '[[Category:People from Blackheath, London]]', 105 => '[[Category:People educated at Blackheath High School]]', 106 => '[[Category:British women artists]]', 107 => '[[Category:Welsh women artists]]' ]
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