Huadian (make-up): Difference between revisions

Content deleted Content added
Line 1:
{{Short description|Traditional Chinese forehead decoration`}}{{Infobox clothing type|location=[[Spring and Autumn Period]] and [[Warring States Period]], [[China]]|image_file=[[File:Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration).jpg|Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration)]]|caption=Buddhist donors wearing huadian on the forehead and [[Tang dynasty]] clothing, Mokao Cave.|type=Traditional Chinese women facial makeup|material=Diverse}}{{Infobox Chinese
| t = 花鈿
| s = 花钿
Line 10:
| pic = Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave 1.jpg
| piccap = Huadian applied on forehead, dimples, temples, and cheeks of a Buddhist donor in Tang dynasty hanfu, from Mokao Cave.
| l2 = Little flower
}}
 
'''{{Transliteration|zh|Huadian}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=花鈿|s=花钿}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|huazi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=花子|l=Little flower}}),<ref name=":5">{{Cite web|last=The Palace Museum|title=Pottery Figurines In Connection With Ladies' Lives|url=https://en.dpm.org.cn/www_oldweb/English/E/E5/part3.htm|url-status=live|access-date=2021-07-24|website=en.dpm.org.cn}}</ref> '''{{Transliteration|zh|mianhua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=面花}}), '''{{Transliteration|zh|meizi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=媚子}}),<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |title=战国花钿 - 《中国大百科全书》第三版网络版 |url=https://www.zgbk.com/ecph/words?SiteID=1&ID=339395&Type=bkdzb&SubID=605 |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.zgbk.com}}</ref> '''plum blossom makeup<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Hua|first=Mei|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/781020660|title=Chinese clothing|date=2011|isbn=0-521-18689-7|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=32–33|oclc=781020660}}</ref>''' or '''plum makeup<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Chen|first=Jack Wei|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711878|title=The poetics of sovereignty : on Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty|date=2010|isbn=978-1-68417-055-5|location=Cambridge (Massachusetts)|pages=234|oclc=956711878}}</ref>''' ({{Lang-zh|c=梅花粧|p=méihuāzhuāng}} or {{Lang-zh|c=落梅妆|p=luòméizhuāng}}) or '''Shouyang makeup<ref name=":0" />''' ({{Lang-zh|c=寿阳妆}}), is a form of traditional [[Han Chinese|Chinese]] women ornamental [[forehead]] makeup,<ref name=":0" /> which is located between the [[Eyebrow|eyebrows]]<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|last=刘瑜芬|title=How cosmetics were created in ancient China|url=https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/a/201804/21/WS5ada295aa3105cdcf6519a30.html|access-date=2021-07-24|website=www.chinadaily.com.cn}}</ref><ref name=":7">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=86-87|oclc=19814728}}</ref> and sometimes on the [[Cheek|cheeks]],<ref name=":5" /> the [[Temple (anatomy)|temples]],<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |last=Wu |first=Qian |date=2022 |title=传统艺术中的花钿研究--《河北大学》2010年硕士论文 |url=https://cdmd.cnki.com.cn/article/cdmd-10075-2010208787.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=cdmd.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> and the [[Dimple|dimples]].<ref name=":4" /> According to a folklore legend, the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} in floral shape originated in the [[Northern and Southern dynasties|Southern dynasty period]];<ref name=":0" /> its creation is attributed to Princess Shouyang,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Shu |first=Hongxia |date=2021 |title=Rhyme in the Poems by Li Qingzhao and Zhu Shuzhen--《Journal of Yuncheng Advanced Training College》2000年05期 |url=https://en.cnki.com.cn/Article_en/CJFDTotal-YCGD200005018.htm |access-date=2021-07-24 |website=en.cnki.com.cn}}</ref><ref name=":7" /> a daughter of [[Emperor Wu of Song|Emperor Wu]] of [[Liu Song dynasty|Liu Song]] (420 – 479 AD).<ref name=":1" /> However, the origins of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} can be traced back earlier than the folklore legends to the [[Qin dynasty|Qin]] and [[Han dynasty|Han dynasties]],<ref name=":9" /> and even in the pre-Qin period<ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Rui |first=Ying |date=2016 |title=浅析妇女花钿妆--《艺术品鉴》2016年12期 |url=https://www.cnki.com.cn/Article/CJFDTotal-YSPJ201612110.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> with its customs arising as early as the [[Spring and Autumn period]] (c. 770 – 476 BC) and [[Warring States period]] (c. 475 – 221 BC) based on archaeological artifacts and studies.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Cao |first=Lifang |date=2011 |title=古代女子的花钿 – 国学网 |url=http://www.guoxue.com/?p=11516 |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=Guoxue |language=zh-CN}}</ref><ref name=":8" /> Its origins has no connection with the {{Transliteration|zh|diandan}} ({{Lang-zh|s=点丹|l=Dot Cinnabar}}), i.e. {{Transliteration|zh|[[urna|Baihao]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=白毫}}), found on the middle forehead of [[Buddha in art|Buddha statue]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Yu |first=Qian |last2=Lu |first2=Xiuwen |date=2006 |title=敦煌壁画中的妇女花钿妆——妆饰文化研究之五--《敦煌研究》2006年05期 |url=https://www.cnki.com.cn/Article/CJFD2006-DHYJ200605009.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} was also popular among [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Song dynasty|Song dynasties]]' women.<ref name=":0" /> The popularity of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} declined in the [[Yuan dynasty]].<ref name=":9" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} forms an integral part of [[Hanfu|Chinese clothing]] culture.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Xuewei |date=2007 |title=古之花钿 今更俏 |url=http://www.cqvip.com/qk/96606x/200702/24617457.html |website=cqvip.com}}</ref> In present days, {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} is often combined with the wearing of [[hanfu]], the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese.<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|title=Huadian - A Special Hanfu Makeup for Female|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7034.html|access-date=2021-07-24|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}}</ref>
 
== Designs and colours ==
Line 22 ⟶ 23:
== History ==
The customs of applying early prototypes of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} can be traced back to the Pre-Qin period;<ref name=":10" /> for examples, female figurines unearthed from the tomb of [[Chu (state)|Chu]] dating to the [[Warring States period]] in [[Changsha]], [[Hunan|Hunan province]], have decorative shapes or patterns painted on their face, which shows that the prototypes of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} already existed much earlier than the folk legends.<ref name=":11" /><ref name=":8" />
[[File:Gu Kaizhi 003a.jpg|thumb|254x254px|Women with huadian painted on forehead, from the painting ''[[Admonitions Scroll]]'', attributed to [[Gu Kaizhi]].]]
 
=== Northern and Southern dynasties ===
[[File:Gu Kaizhi 003a.jpg|thumb|254x254px|Women with huadian painted on forehead, from the painting ''[[Admonitions Scroll]]'', attributed to [[Gu Kaizhi]].]]According to a legend, the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} in floral design originated in the [[Northern and Southern dynasties|Southern dynasty period]] when a [[Prunus mume|plum blossom]] was blown on the forehead of Princess Shouyang (a daughter of [[Emperor Wu of Song|Song Wudi]]<ref name=":1" />) when the latter was taking a walk in the palace in early spring.<ref name=":0" /> The plum blossom for some reasons could not be removed or washed off; but since it looked beautiful on the princess, it became a fashion trend.<ref name=":0" />
 
Another legend says that Princess Shouyang was taking a nap when a plum blossom fell on her forehead (and cheeks<ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Zhang |first=Lei |date=2012 |title=The pursuit of beauty{{!}}Life{{!}}chinadaily.com.cn |url=http://europe.chinadaily.com.cn/epaper/2012-11/16/content_15935976.htm |access-date=2021-07-24 |website=europe.chinadaily.com.cn}}</ref>) leaving imprints;<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1091683826|title=The Works of Li Qingzhao|date=2019|others=Ronald Egan, Anna Shields|year=|isbn=978-1-5015-0451-8|location=Berlin|pages=170|oclc=1091683826}}</ref><ref name=":1" /> these imprints stays for three days.<ref name=":2" /> The effect of the flower imprint was so striking that it formed a new vogue and was copied by other ladies.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":1" /> This fashion trend soon became popular across the country.<ref name=":2" />
Line 32 ⟶ 31:
 
=== Tang dynasty and Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period ===
According to the {{Transliteration|zh|Youyang zazu}}《{{Lang-zh|c=酉阳杂俎|labels=no}}》, women in the Tang dynasty painted {{Transliteration|zh|huazi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=花子}}) on their face, which originated from [[Shangguan Wan'er]].<ref name=":11" /> According to the Chinese folk legend, the red plum blossom {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} became popular in the Tang dynasty under the influence of Shangguan Wan'er. Shangguan Wan'er had her face ruined by [[Wu Zetian]] with a scar on the forehead, and as a result, she tattooed a red plum blossom around her scar and dyed it red taking inspiration to the plum blossom makeup created by Princess Shouyang.<ref name=":12">{{Cite web |date=2022-09-23 |title=Shangguan Wan'er: A beauty blogger in the Tang Dynasty, with skillful hands creating a splendid life |url=https://min.news/en/culture/3734fc4ea7824d3d5aa79a241ca8128a.html |website=iMedia}}</ref> The red plum blossom not only covered her scar but also made her look more beautiful and charming, which in turn made the makeup popular from the palace ladies to the common folk turning it into a representative makeup of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":12" /> This became known as {{Transliteration|zh|Hongmei zhuang}} ({{Lang-zh|c=红梅妆|l=Red Plum Makeup}}).
In the [[Tang dynasty]], the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} could be painted or made of tiny pieces of metal,<ref name=":7" /> such as gold or silver foil.<ref name=":6" /> Other materials such as paper, fish scales or dragonfly wings were also used to make the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}}.<ref name=":6" /> During this period, there were more than 10 variations of plum blossoms which were used as facial adornment.<ref name=":2" /> Bird, snake and lead-shaped decorations were also popular.<ref name=":2" />
 
In the [[Tang dynasty]], the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} could also be painted or made of tiny pieces of metal,<ref name=":7" /> such as gold or silver foil.<ref name=":6" /> Other materials such as paper, fish scales or dragonfly wings were also used to make the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}}.<ref name=":6" /> During this period, there were more than 10 variations of plum blossoms which were used as facial adornment.<ref name=":2" /> Bird, snake and lead-shaped decorations were also popular.<ref name=":2" />
 
 
 
During the prosperous period of the [[Tang dynasty]] and the [[Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period]], the {{Transliteration|zh|mianye}} reached high up to the two sides of the nose, and they were shaped in the form of coins, peaches, birds, and flowers.<ref name=":0" /><gallery mode="packed">
File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Courtesan1 (red powder).jpg|Courtesan with huadian on forehead, Tang dynasty
File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Dancer chop.jpg|A Tang dynasty woman
File:A T'ang Dynasty Woman 1.jpg|A Tang dynasty woman
File:Five Dynasties makeup.jpg|Woman wearing makeuphuadian on forehead and mianye, [[Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period|Five dynasties]] period.
</gallery>
 
Line 47 ⟶ 51:
</gallery>
 
== Gallery21st century ==
In the 21st century, the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} typically do not appear on women's face as daily makeup. However, the traditional pattern design of {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} is still used in the designs of contemporary wedding accessories and large shows.<ref name=":4" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} is also used as a form of makeup for women when wearing [[hanfu]].<ref name=":4" /> It is also depicted in many [[Chinese television drama]].<ref name=":4" /> Nowadays, the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} can either be painted or be applied on the face in the form of commercialized [[Tattoo|temporary tattoos]].
== See also ==
 
== Not to be confused with ==
 
* [[Bindi (decoration)|Bindi]]
* [[Tilaka]]
* [[Urna]]
 
== See also ==
* [[Hanfu]]
* [[Hanfu accessories]]