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Celery makes a minor appearance in colonial American gardens; its culinary limitations are reflected in the observation by the author of ''A Treatise on Gardening, by a Citizen of Virginia'' that it is "one of the species of [[parsley]]".<ref>Quoted in Ann Leighton, ''American Gardens in the Eighteenth Century'', 1976, p. 199.</ref> Its first extended treatment in print was in [[Bernard M'Mahon]]'s ''American Gardener's Calendar'' (1806).<ref>{{Cite web |last=Shields |first=David |title="American Heritage Vegetables" |url=http://lichen.csd.sc.edu/vegetable/vegetable.php?vegName=Celery |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001235331/http://lichen.csd.sc.edu/vegetable/vegetable.php?vegName=Celery |archive-date=2015-10-01 |access-date=2016-11-27}}</ref>
After the mid-19th century, continued selections for refined crisp texture and taste brought celery to American tables, where it was served in [[celery vase|celery vases]] to be salted and eaten raw. Celery was so popular in the United States during the 19th and early 20th centuries that the [[New York Public Library]]'s [http://menus.nypl.org/ historical menu archive] shows that it was the third-most-popular dish in New York City menus during that time, behind only [[coffee]] and [[tea]]. In those days, celery cost more than [[caviar]], as it was difficult to cultivate. There were also many varieties of celery back then that are no longer around because they are difficult to grow and do not ship well.<ref>{{cite web |title=When Celery Was More Special Than Caviar |url=http://www.sporkful.com/when-celery-was-more-special-than-caviar/ |website=Sporkful podcast}}</ref>
A [[Chthonic|chthonian]] symbol among the ancient Greeks, celery was said to have sprouted from the blood of [[Cabeiri|Kadmilos]], father of the [[Cabeiri]], chthonian divinities celebrated in [[Samothrace]], [[Lemnos]], and [[Thebes, Greece|Thebes]].{{Citation needed|reason=I think this comes from Clement, Exhortation to the Greeks 2. 16 but I don't have the tools to verify |date=February 2020}} The spicy odor and dark leaf colour encouraged this association with the cult of death. In classical Greece, celery leaves were used as garlands for the dead, and the wreaths of the winners at the [[Isthmian Games]] were first made of celery before being replaced by crowns made of [[pine]]. According to [[Pliny the Elder]], in<ref>[[Pliny's Natural History|Pliny, ''Natural History'']] XIX.46.</ref> [[Achaea (Roman province)|Achaea]], the garland worn by the winners of the sacred [[Nemean Games]] was also made of celery.<ref name=Fragiska/> The Ancient Greek colony of [[Selinunte|Selinous]] ({{langx|grc|Σελινοῦς}}, ''Selinous''), on [[Sicily]], was named after wild parsley that grew abundantly there; Selinountian coins depicted a parsley leaf as the symbol of the city.{{Citation needed|date=March 2021}}
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