Culross: Difference between revisions

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{{Use British English|date=January 2018}}
{{Infobox UK place
| country = Scotland
| official_name = Culross
| local_name= =
| gaelic_name = Cuileann Ros
| scots_name = Culross
| population = {{Scottish locality populations|name|POP=High Valleyfield, Low Valleyfield and Culross}}
| population_ref = ({{United Kingdom statistics year|ScotSettlement}} including [[Valleyfield, Fife|Valleyfield]])<ref>{{Scotland settlement population citation}}</ref>
| population_density =
| os_grid_reference =
| map_type = Scotland
| coordinates = {{coord|56.0554|-3.6293|display=inline,title}}
| community_scotland = Culross
| unitary_scotland = [[Fife]]
| lieutenancy_scotland = [[Fife]]
| constituency_westminster = [[Dunfermline and West Fife (UK Parliament constituency)|Dunfermline and West Fife]]
| constituency_scottish_parliament = [[Dunfermline (Scottish Parliament constituency)|Dunfermline]]
| post_town =
| postcode_district =
| postcode_area =
| dial_code =
| london_distance =
| edinburgh_distance =
| static_image_name = Culross, Fife, Scotland.JPG
| static_image_caption = Culross (including [[Culross Town House]]) and the Firth of Forth
| area_total_sq_mi =
}}
 
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==Founding legend==
A legend states that when the Brittonic princess (and future saint) [[Teneu]], daughter of the king of [[Lothian]], became [[pregnant]] before marriage, her family threw her from a cliff. She survived the fall unharmed, and was soon met by an unmanned boat. She knew she had no home to go to, so she got into the boat; it sailed her across the [[Firth of Forth]] to land at Culross, where she was cared for by [[Saint Serf]]; he became foster-father of her son, [[Saint Kentigern]] (or Mungo).<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.heraldscotland.com/news/12732801.Mungo__the_saint_from_Culross/|title=Mungo, the saint from Culross|work= www.heraldscotland.com}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.scotlandspilgrimjourneys.com/faqs/question/19/|title=Scotland's Pilgrim Journeys |work=www.scotlandspilgrimjourneys.com }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.universitystory.gla.ac.uk/coat-of-arms/ |title=University of Glasgow :: Story :: The Coat of Arms |work=www.universitystory.gla.ac.uk |access-date=28 January 2017 |archive-date=14 November 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111114233345/http://www.universitystory.gla.ac.uk/coat-of-arms/ |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name="scotsman.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/st-mungo-and-his-mysterious-deeds-1-466971|title=St Mungo and his mysterious deeds |work=www.scotsman.com}}</ref><ref name="Collins Enc">{{cite book|last1=Keay |first1=John and Julia |title=Collins Encyclopedia of Scotland |date=1994 |publisher=Collins |location=London |isbn=0-00-255082-2 |page=205 |edition=1st}}</ref>
 
==West Kirk and Abbey==
[[File:West Kirk of Culross viewed from west.jpg|thumb|left|350px|West Kirk of Culross viewed from west]]
The parish appears to have originally centred further west. The original church, later known as the "West Kirk" perhaps dates to the 11th century but was abandoned around 1500 and, therefore, did not come into play in 1560 at the time of the [[Scottish Reformation.|Reformation]]; Howeverhowever, it continued to be used for burials into the 20th century, being a long-established burial ground.<ref>Buildings of Scotland: fifeFife, by John Gifford</ref>
 
Meanwhile theThe [[Cistercian]] Abbey, dedicated to the [[Mary, mother of Jesus|Virgin Mary]] and [[St.Saint Serf]], was built around a mile to the east in 1217, being founded by [[Malcolm, Earl of Fife]]. Part of this became the parish church in 1560 and was restored in 1905. A Chapel of [[St. Mungo]] (now wholly lost) was erected in 1503 by [[Robert Blackadder]], [[Archbishop of Glasgow]].<ref name="Fasti Ecclesiastae Scotia">''Fasti Ecclesiae Scoticanae''</ref>
The parish appears to have originally centred further west. The original church, later known as the "West Kirk" perhaps dates to the 11th century but was abandoned around 1500 and therefore did not come into play in 1560 at the time of the Reformation. However, it continued to be used for burials, being a long-established burial ground.<ref>Buildings of Scotland: fife by John Gifford</ref>
 
The first recorded minister was John Dykes (1567). He was replaced in 1593 by Robert Colville, of [[Linlithgow]], who ministered until 1629, when replaced by his assistant Robert Melville. John Duncan MA took over in 1632. Duncan was pensioned off in 1642 but is recorded as joining the camp of [[General Leslie]] at Newcastle 1646–47 during the [[English Civil War]].<ref name="Fasti Ecclesiastae Scotia"/>
Meanwhile the [[Cistercian]] Abbey dedicated to the Virgin Mary and [[St. Serf]] was built around a mile to the east in 1217, being founded by Malcolm, Earl of Fife. Part of this became the parish church in 1560 and was restored in 1905. A Chapel of [[St. Mungo]] (now wholly lost) was erected in 1503 by [[Robert Blackadder]], [[Archbishop of Glasgow]].
 
In the 17th century, its most notable minister was the Covenanter [[James Fraser of Brea]], who took over in 1689.
 
==Industry==
[[File:Tanhouse Brae, Culross, looking south to the Firth of Forth.jpg|thumb|Tanhouse Brae, Culross, looking south to the Firth of Forth]]
[[File:Anchor and wheelie bin store building - geograph.org.uk - 952290.jpg|thumb|upright|left|Anchor and storage building]]
During the 16th and 17th centuries, the town was a centre of the [[coal mining|coal-mining]] industry.<ref name="scotsman.com"/><ref name="Collins Enc"/> Sir [[George Bruce of Carnock]], who built the splendid [[Culross Palace|'Palace' of Culross]] and whose elaborate family monument stands in the north transept of the Abbey church, established a coal mine at Culross in 1575. andIn in1590, 1595he constructed [[the Moat Pit at Culross]], the first coal mine in the world to extend under the sea.<ref name="SAJ08">{{cite journal|last=Adamson|first=Donald|year=2008|title=A Coal Mine in the Sea: Culross and the Moat Pit|journal=Scottish Archaeological Journal |volume=30|issue=1–2|pages=161–199|doi=10.3366/E1471576709000400|jstor=27917615}}</ref> by which it became the first coal mine in the world to extend under the sea. The mine worked what is now known as the [[Upper Hirst|Upper Hirst coal seam]], with ingenious contrivances to drain the constant leakage from above. This mine was considered one of the marvels of the British Isles in the early 17th century, described by one visitor, [[John Taylor (poet)|John Taylor, The Water Poet]], as "a wonder ... an unfellowed and unmatchable work",<ref>{{cite web|url=https://scholarsbank.uoregon.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1794/5419/taylor2.pdf?sequence=1|title=The Penniless Pilgrimage|last=Taylor|first=John|publisher=Renascence Editions|pages=22–24|access-date=28 January 2017}}</ref> until the Moat Pit was destroyed in a storm on 30 March 1625.<ref name="SAJ08"/><ref>{{cite web
| title = Culross
| work = Undiscovered Scotland
Line 54 ⟶ 59:
| access-date = 8 Sep 2009 }}</ref>
 
Culross's secondary industry was [[Salt pan (evaporation)|salt panning]].<ref name="SESH12">{{cite journal|last=Sugden|first=J|date=September 2012|title=ARCHIBALD, 9th EARL OF DUNDONALD: AN EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY ENTREPRENEUR|journal=Scottish Economic & Social History|publisher=Edinburgh University Press|volume=8|issue=1|pages=8–27|doi=10.3366/sesh.1988.8.8.8|url=http://www.euppublishing.com/doi/pdfplus/10.3366/sesh.1988.8.8.8|url-access=subscription}}</ref>{{rp|9–10}} There were seven salt pans at Culross in 1573. The [[Privy Council of Scotland]] allowed the proprietors, led by John Blaw and Alexander Eizatt, to export salt and they undertook to pay a duty in silver to the [[mints of Scotland|Scottish royal mint]]. In 1574, [[Regent Morton]] revoked licences to export salt because of a shortage of salt in Scotland.<ref>John Hill Burton, ''Register of the Privy Council of Scotland'', vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1878), pp. 293–294, 407.</ref>

There was a considerable export trade by sea in the produce of these industries, and the prevalence of red roof tiles in Culross and other villages in Fife is thought to be a direct result of collier ships returning to Culross with [[Dutch roof tiles]] as ballast. The town was also known for its monopoly on the manufacture of '[[griddle|girdles]]', i.e.a colloquial name for flat iron plates for baking over an open fire.<ref>{{cite web|title=Hearth and Home |publisher=Fife Folk Museum |url=http://www.fifefolkmuseum.org/content/pages/collections/hearth-and-home.php |access-date=2009-04-05 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081119151257/http://www.fifefolkmuseum.org/content/pages/collections/hearth-and-home.php |archive-date=19 November 2008 }}</ref><ref name="scotsman.com"/><ref name="Collins Enc"/>
 
In the late 18th century, [[Archibald Cochrane, 9th Earl of Dundonald]], established kilns for extracting [[coal tar]] using his patented method.<ref name="SESH12"/>{{rp|12–13}}
 
The town's role as a port declined from the 18th century, and by Victorian times it had become something of a [[ghost town]]. The harbour was filled in and the sea cut off by the coastal railway line in the secondvery halfearly part of the 19th20th century. The outer harbourpier has recently been restoredthe bysubject aof localrestoration groupwork.<ref>{{citationcite web needed|url=http://fyca.org.uk/_ArchiveOfFYCA/Cruising/other%20articles/culross/culrosswalkway.htm |title=New walkway at Culross Harbour | work =fyca.org.uk |access-date=September22 January 20192022}}</ref>
 
==Heritage==
[[File:Culrosshouse7 December.jpg|thumb|left|upright|[[Culross Town House]]]]
[[File:Culross Palace.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Culross Palace]] with its [[crow-step]] [[gable]] design]]
[[File:Street in Culross.jpg|thumb|upright|Street in Culross]]
Notable buildings in the burgh include [[Culross Town House]], formerly used as a [[courthouse]] and [[prison]],<ref>{{Canmore|num=48022 |desc=Culross, Sandhaven, Town House |access-date=15 June 2021}}</ref> the 16th -century [[Culross Palace]], 17th -century [[Culross Study|Study]], and the remains of the [[Cistercian]] house of [[Culross Abbey]], founded 1217.<ref name="Collins Enc2">{{cite book|last1=Keay|first1=John and Julia|title=Collins Encyclopedia of Scotland|date=1994|publisher=Collins|location=London|isbn=0-00-255082-2|page=206|edition=1st}}</ref><ref name="CH14"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-352-1/dissemination/pdf/vol_060/60_067_104.pdf |title=Culross Abbey and its Charters |last=Douglas |first=William |year=1925 |publisher=Archaeology Data Service|access-date=28 January 2017}}</ref> The tower, transepts and choir of the Abbey Church remain in use as the parish church, while the ruined claustral buildings are cared for by [[Historic Environment Scotland]].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/culross-abbey/|title=Culross Abbey |work =www.historicenvironment.scot}}</ref>
 
The West Kirk fell out of use before 1633, when it was noted as no longer serving as the parish church.<ref>{{Canmore|num=48029 |desc=Culross, West Church And Churchyard |access-date=15 June 2021}}</ref> The West Kirk was also the site where four women executed for witchcraft in 1675 were alleged to have congregated.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Macdonald |first1=Stuart |title=The Scottish witch-hunt in context |publisher=Manchester University Press |isbn=9780719060243 |date=2002|pages=42-4742–47}}</ref>
 
Just outside the town is the 18th-century [[Dunimarle Castle]], built by the [[Clan Erskine|Erskine family]] to supersede a medieval castle.<ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|num=GDL00155|desc=Dunimarle Castle|access-date=12 April 2019}}</ref>
 
[[Thomas Cochrane, 10th Earl of Dundonald]], spent much of his early life in Culross, where his family had an estate.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3667673/The-real-master-and-commander.html |title=The real master and commander |first=By David |last=Cordingly |work =www.telegraph.co.uk}}</ref> A bust in his honour, bythe work of [[Scott Sutherland]], can be seen outside the Culross Town House.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/letters/9504247/Cochrane-was-Britains-greatest-frigate-captain.html |title=Cochrane was Britain's greatest frigate captain |work =www.telegraph.co.uk}}</ref> He was the first [[Vice Admiral of Chile]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://militaryhistory.about.com/od/naval/p/Napoleonic-Wars-Admiral-Lord-Thomas-Cochrane.htm|title=Napoleonic Wars: Admiral Lord Thomas Cochrane|last=Hickman|first=Kennedy|access-date=29 January 2017|work=militaryhistory.about.com|archive-date=15 November 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161115132734/http://militaryhistory.about.com/od/naval/p/Napoleonic-Wars-Admiral-Lord-Thomas-Cochrane.htm|url-status=dead}}</ref>
 
The war memorial was erected in 1921 to a design by Sir [[Robert Lorimer]].<ref>Dictionary of Scottish Architects: Robert Lorimer</ref>
 
During the 20th century, it became recognised that Culross contained many unique historical buildings, and the [[National Trust for Scotland]] has been working on their preservation and restoration since the 1930s.<ref name="CH14">{{cite book|last=Harvie|first=Christopher|title=Scotland: A Short History|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KIodBAAAQBAJ&q=National+Trust+for+Scotland+Culross&pg=PA95|year=2014|publisher=Oxford University Press|isbn=9780198714880|page=95}}</ref>
 
== Administration==
[[Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889|Prior to the 1890s]], the parish of Culross formed an [[exclave]] of [[Perthshire]].<ref>{{cite book|last=Taylor|first=Simon|title=The Place-Names of Fife, Volume One|year=2006|publisher=Shaun Tyas|isbn=1-900289-77-6|page=223|author2=Gilbert Markus|url=http://fife-placenames.glasgow.ac.uk/placename/?id=10| quote =The parish of Culross, along with its neighbouring parish of Tulliallan, also Dunblane Diocese, formed a detached part of the earldom, later the stewartry, of Strathearn, which explains why both were in a detached part of Perthshire until 1891, when they became part of Fife.}}</ref> It is within the [[Dunfermline and West Fife (UK Parliament constituency)|Dunfermline and West Fife]] [[Parliament of the United Kingdom|Westminster]] [[Parliamentary constituency]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bcomm-scotland.independent.gov.uk/maps/westminster/2005/ |title=Boundary Commission for Scotland - Maps - UK Parliament constituencies 2005 onwards |work =www.bcomm-scotland.independent.gov.uk|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130504234425/http://www.bcomm-scotland.independent.gov.uk/maps/westminster/2005/|archive-date=2013-05-04}}</ref>
 
==Culross as a location for filming==
[[File:Mercat Cross, Culross.jpg|thumb|Mercat Cross, Culross]]
Several motion pictures have used Culross as a filming location, including [[Kidnapped (1971 film)|''Kidnapped'']] (1971),<ref>{{IMDb titleCitation needed|0067302|Kidnappeddate=June (1971)2024}}</ref> [[The Little Vampire (film)|''The Little Vampire'']] (2000),<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.scotlandthemovie.com/movies/vampcul.html|title= The Little Vampire - Culross|work=Scotland: the Movie Location Guide|access-date=22 June 2016}}</ref> ''A Dying Breed'' (2007),<ref>{{IMDb titleCitation needed|1058522|Adate=June Dying Breed (2007)2024}}</ref> [[The 39 Steps (2008 film)|''The 39 Steps'']] (2008),<ref>{{IMDb titleCitation needed|1282016|Thedate=June 39 Steps (2008)2024}}</ref> and ''[[Captain America: The First Avenger]]'' (2011).<ref>{{IMDb titleCitation needed|0458339|Captaindate=June America: The First Avenger (2011)2024}}</ref> In September 2013, the [[Starz]] television series, [[Outlander (TV series)|''Outlander'']], started filming in Culross for its premiere in August 2014.<ref>{{cite news|last1=Ferguson|first1=Brian|title=Outlander could run for five years says Moore|url=http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/outlander-could-run-for-five-years-says-moore-1-3518732|access-date=22 June 2016|work=[[The Scotsman]]|date=23 August 2014}}</ref>
 
==Notable people==
[[File:Tanhouse Brae, Culross.jpg|thumb|285px|Tanhouse Brae, Culross]]
* [[George Bruce of Carnock]] (1550-16251550–1625), Lord Bruce
* [[Christian Cavendish, Countess of Devonshire]], (1595-16751595–1675), daughter of [[Edward Bruce, 1st Lord Kinloss]] (1548-1611), owner of Culross Abbey House.
* [[Thomas Cochrane, 10th Earl of Dundonald|Thomas Cochrane]] (1775–1860), naval officer, mercenary and politician, spent much of his early life in Culross, where his family had an estate.
* [[Robert Leighton (bishop)|Bishop Leighton]], Archbishop of Glasgow
* [[Elizabeth Melville]], "Lady Culross" (c.1578 - c1578–c.1640), Scotland's earliest -known published female poet
* [[Stewart McPherson (VC)|Stewart McPherson]] (1822-18921822–1892), recipient of the [[Victoria Cross]]
* RevRevd. [[Robert Pont]] (1525-16061525–1606) radical church figure during the Reformation, five times [[Moderator of the Church of Scotland]]
* [[Gilbert Primrose (surgeon)|Gilbert Primrose]] (d. 1616) surgeon to [[James VI and I|James VI]]
* [[Jackie Sinclair]] (1943-20101943–2010), Scottish international footballer
 
==Twin towns and sister cities==
Culross is twinned with Dutch town of [[Veere]] in the Netherlands, which was formerly the port through which its export goods entered the [[Low Countries]].<ref>{{cite web|title=The Scottish Staple at Veere |url=http://www.fdca.org.uk/FDCAVeereStaple.html |work =www.fdca.org.uk |access-date=2009-02-01 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101204022628/http://www.fdca.org.uk/FDCAVeereStaple.html |archive-date=2010-12-04 }}</ref>
 
==References==