Malta – A Fantasy Historical Flight

“Odyssey is an industry-first initiative that seamlessly integrates immersive storytelling and informative scene-setting shows with a historical, story-driven flying theatre ride. Get ready to step into a world where history comes alive”

Our plan was to walk north along the coast to the nearby village of St Julian’s and depending upon the weather maybe  even further, if things turned out badly then we could always get a bus back to Sliema.

For the time being at any rate the weather this morning was fabulous.

I don’t know this for sure of course but I imagine that the east coast of Malta used to be a string of villages with green space between them but rapid commercial and tourist development has morphed them into one long homogeneous strip of continuous concrete, high rise and tarmac.

I admit that I have a tendency to lament the passing of time, to be gloomy about the passing of the past.  The loss of heritage.  On this walk I found myself weighed down by nostalgia and despondency in equal measures. Maybe I should try harder to welcome the change, embrace the present and look forward to the future.  I should use full beam going forward rather than looking in the rear view mirror. I need to add a dash of hope to my cocktail.  The historian in me makes this difficult.

St Julian’s in the 1960s…

… and almost all of this gone, swept away in a frenzy of hasty development and here in the east much of the previous charm of Malta has been hollowed out and now there is high rise where once there were traditional homes, Starbucks where there were corner bars, McDonalds where there were tavernas.  Malta has the fastest growing economy in Europe and it shows and there is a swift, maybe reckless transition from the old to the new and the development demonstrates impatient haste.

This what St Julian’s looks like now from the roof terrace of the tallest building (for now at least) in Malta…

So today we were visiting a new visitor attraction called ‘The Odyssey’.  There are a number of these audio-visual shows in Malta and this is the newest.  Last year we went to something similar in the Bastion fort in Valletta which raced through history and concentrated on the WW2 siege of Malta.  It was very good.

So, we booked on line and got a late morning slot.  I really don’t like that booking online business and being tied down to a time slot, it takes all of the spontaneity out of visiting and travelling always having to have one eye on the time.  It strips out the casual and and the impromptu and replaces it with timetables and an alarm.  And you no longer get proper tickets just an email confirmation and a QR code.

I know, I know…

Anyway, it was rather good, a few light shows, some films and some animations and then we were strapped into our seats for our flight over Malta.

I wasn’t exactly sure why it was called ”Odyssey” but it turned out to have a connection with Homer’s epic poem ‘The Odyssey“.  Now after the hero Odysseus had fooled the Trojans with his wooden horse prank and the war was over he set off home for the island of Ithaca, a couple of hundred miles away at most near the island of Kefalonia. but he managed to find himself over seven hundred miles away in Malta.  That was either one hell of a storm or navigational aids weren’t especially reliable two thousand years ago.

So, what is the Malta connection you might well ask?  Well, it took Odysseus ten years to make the journey home but seven of them he spent in Calypso’s Cave on nearby island of Gozo, lured there and kept prisoner there by the nymph Calypso.

A nymph (or nymphomaniac) is by the way is (according to Wiki) a woman with an excessively strong, uncontrollable sexual desire also known as hypersexuality or sex addiction.

I wonder why he stayed for seven years?

It was a good experience, well worth the entrance fee even though the final ten minutes was obviously sponsored by the Malta Tourist Board but it finished with an express lift ride to the thirty-fourth floor and a panoramic view of the entire island.

Nothing left to do now except walk back to Sliema, stopping now and again to sit in the December sunshine, lament a little  and reminisce a lot as we told each other about travels past.

Later we choose a different restaurant quite close to where we were staying, it was good and we agreed that we might return tomorrow.  We are like that, if we find somewhere we like we will go back, no point taking unnecessary gastro risks.

 

 

Malta – The Silent City of Mdina

It had been some time since we last visited the city of Mdina in the centre of the island, mostly because getting there and back can be difficult in terms of transport when using the Malta bus system.

We thought that it was time to make a return visit.  I first visited in 1990 and it was wonderful, the streets were unpaved, the walls were peeling, it was sun stroked, wind weathered and frost bitten and it was as as though nothing had changed in over a hundred years or so.  Maybe even five hundred years.  In 2015 the first thing that struck me was that in twenty years there has been a lot of restoration in Mdina.  The once crumbling walls have been repaired and the untidy concrete streets have all been repaved.  I preferred it the old way because it seems to me that the Maltese have managed to transform this wonderful place into a sort of Disney World EPCOT interpretation of what it used to be like.

Nevertheless we thought we should go back and see what ten years had done so we took the ferry from Sliema to Malta and made our way to the busy bus terminal.

Travelling by bus in Malta is not a pleasant experience, they are overcrowded and you might be lucky and get a seat but most likely not which means standing and clinging onto something, anything for dear life and waiting along with everyone else for a seating opportunity.  And it stops every hundred yards or so and five people get off and twenty-five get on and there is a suffocating smell of garlic and b.o.  So it was not a great journey but on the positive side it was a lot cheaper than a taxi.

As it happened not much had changed so much in ten years since the last visit except that it was a little more commercialised but I guess that is to be expected and there were entry fees to the Cathedral when I am fairly certain that there didn’t use to be.  I don’t like paying entry fees to a Cathedral because I think the Catholic Church is already wealthy enough already  so we didn’t go inside but instead  just walked the charming streets,

Looking for doors…

We didn’t stay long, I wished we hadn’t bothered at all  if I am truthful, I worried about the bus ride home and queues of people because that happened to me the previous time so we had a drink and a very disappointing chicken wrap at the Fontanella Tea Rooms and then made a brisk return to the bus stop.

And then the day got a whole lot better.  As we waited, first in line for the public transport bus a vintage Malta bus turned up and stopped and said that he had two seats left and did we want them?  Did we want them?  Of course we did! Of course we did!

Up until 2011 Malta had a wonderful bus service with a fleet of vehicles mostly imported from the UK, privately owned, lovingly maintained, customized and painted in a distinctive orange livery with gleaming chrome decoration that required sunglasses just to look at them.

Even in the late 1990s these old buses with their growling engines and banging gear boxes were, admittedly, beginning to creak with age and by 2011 the majority didn’t meet EU standards on carbon emissions and their fate was sealed a thousand miles away in Brussels and the upgrade could scarcely have been more undignified.  They were removed from service, privatised and the island service put out to competitive tender.

Read the full story Here…

It was wonderful, I am a sucker for nostalgia and I was sinking slowly in a memory swamp.  I am certain that Kim enjoyed it too…

The vintage bus dropped us off on the seafront, we waved goodbye to the friendly driver  and it continued to St Julians a mile or so to the north and we sauntered back to the apartment, opened a bottle of wine, sat in the sunny courtyard, played cards and swapped stories and just let the rest of the day slip carelessly through our fingers.

Later we returned to restaurant Ta’Kris and found it effortlessly this time and I was careful to order a smaller portion this time….

A Malta bus pre privatisation…

A Previous visit to Mdina, some time ago…

MALTA – I LOVE IT…

Review of the Year 2025

As we leave 2025 please excuse my annual self-indulgent post to begin the new year as I peer through the keyhole to look back over the last one.

The top ten most visited posts on my Travel Blog always surprise me but then I don’t pretend to understand how search engines work.  I say visited pages rather than read because I am neither so conceited or sufficiently naive to claim that a visit equals a read.  I know that a lot of people will arrive here by mistake and swiftly reverse back out via the escape button!

I have been posting my Review of the Year since 2009 ( I know –  that is so sad) and mostly there has been little change year on year but in 2025 there has been a bit of movement…

No. 1

The Taste of India – The Vesta Ready Curry Meal

Straight in at number 1.  First posted in December 2024 and recording the highest number of visits in 2025 at 2090.

In the 1970s we had Vesta Ready Meals, six of them to choose from, Chow Mein (China), Beef Curry (India), Chicken Supreme (France), Paella (Spain), Chicken Curry (India again) and Beef Risotto (Italy), one for everyday of the week except Sunday I guess when you could still do a traditional roast if you really wanted to.

After a holiday in India earlier in the year and enjoying the curry I set out to recreate the Vesta Ready Meal.

No. 2

Mount Vesuvius

I first posted this in March 2010 so this one has been around a while and with 876 hits and a sixteenth year in the Top Ten it is becoming a stubborn stayer.  In 2025 it has only dropped one place to number 2.  It is also No. 3 in all time page views with 22,690  recordings.  It has been viewed every month since first posted.

No. 3

Sicily, Taormina – A Royal Scandal and an Exotic Garden

First posted in July 2023 after a holiday in Taormina in Sicily and a second showing in the top 10, up one place .  In 2025 it had 756 visits and there seems no good reason for that except some people seem to enjoy a royal scandal.

No.  4

The Little Chef All Day Breakfast

A bit of a surprise this one, first posted February 2021 and popping up in the Top Ten for the first time four years later with 705 visits.

Little Chef was most famous for its all day breakfast which thanks to a standardised corporate menu was pretty much similar in all of the restaurants. If you went for a breakfast then you knew exactly what you were going to get.

In one of my rare food blogs I set out to recreate the famous breakfast.

No.  5

Entrance Tickets – Malta and the Mellieha WW2 Shelters

A third year in the Top 10 Top and retaining the number 5 position,  this is a post from 2017. 550 visits in 2025 up by 100 from the previous year.

In Spring 2015 we spent a few days on the island of Malta.  This was a bit of an experiment on my part because I wanted to see if Kim liked it there as much as I do.  It is sometimes said that you either love Malta or you hate it, it is like Manchester United or Marmite, there are no half measures, there is no sitting on the fence.

Kim liked it and we have been back several times, this picture was taken just a couple of weeks back, it looks like Kim is reflecting over our previous visits…

No. 6

Russia – Lenin’s Mausoleum

A real slow burner this one, first posted in July 2012 but staying in the Top Ten for a second year up 4 places and an extra 120 viewings,

Cameras and mobile phones are strictly forbidden because the authorities don’t want snapshots of Comrade Lenin turning up on the internet in Blogs or on Trip Advisor reviews so they have to be left in a locker room and if anyone tries to defy this and is caught by the thorough security checks then their punishment is to be sent to the back of the queue to start lining up all over again.

I didn’t take these pictures, I obeyed the rules  but someone else must have sneaked a camera in…

No. 7

The Unlikely Story of Saint Lucy

First posted in January 2013 and entering the Top Tem in 2025 at number 7 with 460 visits.

St. Lucy was a  martyr who was one of the earliest Christian saints to achieve popularity, having a widespread following before the 5th century. Because of various traditions associating her name with light (Latin – Lux)  she came to be venerated as the patron of sight and the blind and was depicted by medieval artists carrying a dish containing her eyes.

No. 8

Taormina, Sicily – A Little Disappointing

Sometimes I like a place immediately and sometimes I don’t.  Even within the first hour of arriving and sitting on the balcony with a fine view I knew straight away that I didn’t like Taormina.  I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but it was there nagging away at me.

My immediate impression was that it was all rather like Sorrento or Positano, a place on bucket lists for no good reason other than it is on a bucket list.  Personally I prefer Naples, Palermo and Bari, places with grit and grunge and character.  I just instinctively knew that this place would not measure up.

Surprisingly staying in the Top Ten for a second year with 453 hits

No. 9

The Treasures of Spain – Antoni Gaudi

A newcomer this year but I can’t say for certain because it might have been here before and then dropped out,  390 visits.

No. 10

The Berlin Wall

A genuine newcomer this one with 375 visits.  In 2019 I went on a stag party weekend to the city of Berlin.  When the youngsters went drinking my brother Richard and I went on a tour of the city.

 

Dropping out of the Top Ten this year

Royal Garden Party

This post has been in the Top Ten every year but sadly drops out in 2025.

In total it has 25,000 visits which makes all time top of the list, this year overtaking  my 2011 post about  Norway, Haugesund and the Vikings at 24,800.

This one has been around for a long time and has always been popular especially around the Spring and Summer when invitations to the Royal Garden Party are going out and when people are wondering how to get one or what to wear if they have one.

Another post that has been visited every month since first published.

Bratislava to Vienna Without a Passport

Catalonia – In Search of Norman Lewis

Passage Through India – Travel and Arrival

Sicily – A Sunset and Trouble with a Mosquito

If you have read one of these posts or any of the 3,600 others on my site ‘Have Bag, Will Travel’then thank you from the bottom of my heart!

I guess it proves that George Bailey (It’s A Wonderful Life) was right when he said: “The three most exciting sounds in the world are anchor chains, plane motors and train whistles.”  

Total visits in 2024 – 59,760 (up almost 10% on 2024

Total visits all time – 1,306,400

Countries where most visitors come from – UK, USA and Spain.  Same as last year.

Malta – A Missing Restaurant

We stayed in Sliema the previous year and found this wonderful Maltese restaurant up a side street – very traditional and we dined there every evening because once we find somewhere we like and the food is good it seems pointless to waste time looking elsewhere.

After we had settled in and approved the accommodation and I had been to nearby Lidl for essential  shopping…

… we set out to go there again.  But, do you think we could find it, we (I) had collective brain fade, we were certain that we were on the right street but there was no sign of it  whatsoever.  It was all my fault of course.

So we followed Google maps which took us to a bistro of the same name but we didn’t believe it so we walked some more, asked Google  maps again and it took us to the same place again and we still didn’t believe it so we walked some more.

I Googled again and as I scrolled down chanced upon an article from earlier in the year in the local news which said that our bistro had closed down and had relocated to exactly where Google maps had directed us.  Turned out that Google maps was right all along.  What a bloody clever dick site it is.

Once inside and reconciled to our (my) mistake we placed our order.  Kim had a sticky chicken salad and I had rabbit pasta.  I was determined to have rabbit something.  We used to eat rabbit when I was a boy but it it is difficult to find and buy these days in the UK,  they eat a lot of rabbit in Malta so I was eager to try some.

I don’t know why we don’t eat rabbit, it is so tasty, I guess it is the same reason that we don’t eat horse, it just doesn’t seem right to eat a pet.  The French wouldn’t understand that of course.

When it arrived it was delicious but way more than I could possibly eat and when I get a plate of food like that I lose my appetite straight away, I know that I cannot possibly eat it all, feel guilty and eat too quickly to get through the food.

I have to say that it was absolutely delicious, really.really delicious but also very rich and I only managed about a third of it and had to explain and apologise profusely for sending so much of it back uneaten.  Kim managed most of her large portion chicken salad but only just.

Meal over, apologies accepted, sweet rejected, we left and stumbled our way back to the excellent apartment.

The next day we planned to walk around the harbour to the city of Valletta…

Read the full story Here…

So, if you got Sliema in Malta I recommend this bistro…

 

December – It must be Malta

I have heard it said that you either love Malta or you hate it, there are no half measures, there is no sitting on the fence.  I love it, Kim loves it. So this December we returned…

… In a previous post I unlocked a bit of Malta…

Read the full story Here…

Stuff That Turns Up

My Mum is poorly and clearing her house down.  A cleared down house throws up surprises and memories.  She came up with this certificate of service that was presented to my granddad  almost fifty years ago in 1967 for nearly forty years service on London Transport.  She had kept it for a lot of years and now I am  most likely its final custodian.

Read the full story Here…

The Icelandic Phallological Museum

 

Read the full story Here…

The Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg

In my last post I raged about the prices in Istanbul, they were outrageous, they almost bankrupted me and I am still smarting from the experience.

Anyway, in my post I compared admission prices to other famous places and I mentioned the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg in Russia.  We visited in June 2012 just after the gangster Putin had seized power and I am so glad that I visited then because I know I never will again and I doubt that people from the west will be going anytime soon.

Read the full story Here…

Istanbul – A Budget Busting City

 

If the first two or three days had been expensive in Istanbul then let me tell you costs were about to go off the scale.  Into the stratosphere no less.

It was another early start as we tried to beat the queues once again and this was moderately successful.  I lined up first for the Hagia Sophia Mosque and almost needed urgent medical attention when it cost almost £50 each.  That is a months groceries for goodness sake.

I assumed this included entrance to the nearby Topkapi Palace but no, absolutely not and I had to queue again and pay another £50 each.  £200, £200!!!  I was lost for words, I was lost for words for several minutes, no hours.  It spoilt the visit for me in actual fact.

Even worse was to come.  The guide books say that the best part of the Topkapi Palace is the visit to the Sultan’s Harem but there was an additional charge for that of another £20.  Whoever runs this place is really taking the piss.  We declined.

The Topkapi Palace Museum itself was worth a visit but certainly not worth the money.  I was expecting something like Blenheim Palace with a succession of lavishly  decorated rooms nut there was a series of outbuildings all with a different display.  There was a lot of armour and weapons and Kim is not interested in armour and weapons and then some jewellery and china and I am not interested in jewellery and china.  All in all a bitter disappointment and at a huge cost.

One room had chests which claimed to contain something important but without showing it what is the point on making the claim without proving it.  I could get a cardboard box and charge people to come and see it in my garage and say that inside is the Holy Grail.

The Chamber of the Holy Relics was a real giggle. The collection includes various artifacts associated with Christian figures such as the arm bones and a skull fragment of John the Baptist and a fragment of the cross on which Jesus was crucified.  There are lots of these fragments in churches and mosques all over the World and if they were all brought together to reconstruct the “True Cross” it would most likely be taller than the Statue of Liberty.

My favourite laugh out loud exhibit was a strand of hair from the beard of the Prophet Mohammed that looked suspiciously like a pubic hair found in a public lavatory.  I am always surprised at just how gullible people can be.

Other unlikely religious tales…

Saint James and Santiago de Compostela

Saint Patrick and Ireland

Saint Spiridon and Corfu

Saint Janurius and the Miracle of the Blood

The Feast of Saint Paul’s Shipwreck

So, after lunch and a beer to help me deal with the financial hit we took our chance in the Sophia Hagia Mosque which I had already disastrously shelled out for.

The rear of the ticket suggested that a museum was included in the admission price…

— but once inside hopes of this were cruelly dashed by a sign that informed visitors that the museum had been been taken away and was now in a different place altogether, presumably with an additional entrance fee.

There was literally nothing of any interest to see, the entrance fee is like willingly letting someone steal your wallet or giving away a bank card together with the pin number.  Daylight robbery!

The entrance fee was £50 so let’s compare that for value for money, Westminster Abbey in London is £30 (also rather expensive in my opinion), Sagrada Familia in Barcelona is £25,  The Palace of Versailles is a very reasonable £20, the Taj Mahal  in India is £10  Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg in Russia is under £5.  The Taj Mahal  in India is £10, St Peter’s in Rome and Notre Dame in Paris are both free.

Istanbul is a rip-off start to finish.  Turkey, I have read has suffered  a recent cost of living crisis with inflation running at up to 80% a couple of years ago and together with making up for loss of revenue during covid years it seems to be passing the cost of this onto the tourist visitors.

On the walk back we were approached again several times about buying a carpet, my response was that I would really like to buy a carpet but a day in your overpriced city has left me absolutely flat broke.

I was shocked, it had all started so well on the first day with free admission to the Blue Mosque but everything beyond that was daylight robbery.  I felt like screaming.

A street kitten in Istanbul…

We spent the remainder of the afternoon on the sunny terrace where there was no danger of spending any more money and then returned to the same restaurant as the previous evening where everything went well until it came to pay the bill and I was completely unable to remember my credit card pin number.

I had to leave Kim as hostage as I went back to the room for an alternative card.  On return, all paid up and I suddenly remembered it.  I had got the right numbers but in the wrong order.  Not my finest day for financial transactions I have to confess.

Allow me to be blunt.  The only Turkey that I want to see ever again is on a my dinner plate on Christmas Day.

I would not go to Istanbul again even if you paid me.

 

Istanbul and Across the Bosphorus to Asia

I am still to acquire confidence about those ticket machines where you use your debit/credit card which is silly I know but there you go, it is what it is so we found a boat that was preparing to leave and dealt only in cash.

So, tickets bought and paid for, very reasonable price actually, we sat on the top deck in the sunshine until time to go.  Time to go is advertised was 12 o’clock but as it turned out (in my opinion) time to go was when the boat had got enough passenger revenue to make the journey worthwhile.  So we sat long after scheduled departure time until the captain or the skipper or the driver or whatever he is was sufficiently satisfied with the number of passengers, cast off and set off.

The Bosphorus is an interesting stretch of water, the only way in or out of the Black Sea to the north so an important passage to have strategic control of which I suppose explains why Istanbul is where it is.  Previously this was Constantinople of course under the Roman Empire.

The boat set off and crossed the channel to the Asian side and followed a course close to the east bank and I confess that I was geographically confused and I have become subsequently convinced that we were not on the Bosphorus proper at all but rather a tributary because for a major shipping lane out of Eastern Europe there was a curious absence of large ships or tankers just a never ending procession of theses small tourist boats.

We were actually on a fjord like inlet called the Golden Horn.

The cruise lasted for ninety minutes there or thereabouts and I wasn’t overly disappointed when it was over and we returned to the pier for disembarkation.  These river cruises are ok but I would much prefer to be walking the streets.  I am not sure that I could do a week or so on a river cruise, I think that I might go mad with boredom.

A lot of time left now for the remainder of the day to do some walking so we crossed the Bosphorus (or maybe not the Bosphorus, I am still not sure) and went over the water into Asia.  I might be wrong on this point but I believe Istanbul is the only city in the World which straddles two continents.

I was expecting it to be different to the European side but this wasn’t what I was expecting because it wasn’t.  East and West in Istanbul are very, very similar it has to be said.

From the bridge there is a massive hill to climb and we didn’t fancy that so we looked for the funicular railway.  I am not a big fan of funicular railways especially after what happened in Lisbon recently but I didn’t fancy the climb either so we took the one hundred and fifty year old funicular to the top.

At the top we looked for the Galata Tower which promised grand views over the Bosphorus and the city but there was an entrance fee of  €30. €30 to join a queue and then climb sixty metres for grand views of the Bosphorus when I am already enjoying grand views of the bosphorus from the bottom of the tower.  Some people have more money than sense.  I was coming to the point of view that Istanbul is getting greedy.

We declined and went to find somewhere for lunch.

After lunch we walked the streets for a while and I wanted to find the Pera Palace Hotel which was was opened in 1892 as a grand hotel for the rich and the famous travelling from Paris to Istanbul on the Orient Express.  They would arrive in the city at Sirkeci terminus on the European side of the water and then be transported by taxi across the Golden Horn to this grand hotel.

Over the years guests included Greta Garbo, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Alfred Hitchcock, Ernest Hemingway (he crops up everywhere of course), Jacqueline Kennedy and Agatha Christie who is said to have written her novel “Murder on the Orient Express” during her extended stay there in the early 1930s.

Other famous guests were Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey (more on him later), the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and Edward VIII of Great Britain.

It is always interesting to see how the rich and famous live or lived but not being rich and famous and never will be we left, took the funicular railway back to the bottom, crossed the bridge and returned to Europe.

Later we walked from the hotel to the seafront and to the fish market where we examined the menus in he adjacent restaurants and bars and thought that we might come back later but after an hour or so on the terrace later got later and later, wine and laziness took over so we abandoned the idea and went to a nearby restaurant instead which turned out to be a very good decision.

The Pera Palace Hotel…